Ireland: The Luck of the Irish

Dublin is making a comeback. The decade-long "Celtic Tiger" boom era was quickly followed by the Great Recession, but The Recovery has finally taken a precarious hold. For visitors, this newer and wiser Dublin has become one of western Europe's most popular and delightful urban destinations. Whether or not you're out to enjoy the old or new Dublin, you'll find it a colossally entertaining city, all the more astonishing considering its intimate size.It is ironic and telling that James Joyce chose Dublin as the setting for his famous Ulysses, Dubliners, and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man because it was a "center of paralysis" where nothing much ever changed. Which only proves that even the greats get it wrong sometimes. Indeed, if Joyce were to return to his once-genteel hometown today—disappointed with the city's provincial outlook, he left it in 1902 at the age of 20—and take a quasi-Homeric odyssey through the city (as he so famously does in Ulysses), would he even recognize Dublin as his "Dear Dirty Dumpling, foostherfather of fingalls and dotthergills"?For instance, what would he make of Temple Bar—the city's erstwhile down-at-the-heels neighborhood, now crammed with cafés and trendy hotels and suffused with a nonstop, international-party atmosphere? Or the simple sophistication of the open-air restaurants of the tiny Italian Quarter (named Quartier Bloom after his own creation), complete with sultry tango lessons? Or of the hot–cool Irishness, where every aspect of Celtic culture results in sold-out theaters, from Once, the cult indie movie and Broadway hit, to Riverdance, the old Irish mass-jig recast as a Las Vegas extravaganza? Plus, the resurrected Joyce might be stirred by the songs of Hozier, fired up by the sultry acting of Michael Fassbender, and moved by the award-winning novels of Colum McCann. As for Ireland's capital, it's packed with elegant shops and hotels, theaters, galleries, coffeehouses, and a stunning variety of new, creative little restaurants can be found on almost every street in Dublin, transforming the provincial city that suffocated Joyce into a place almost as cosmopolitan as the Paris to which he fled. And the locals are a hell of a lot more fun! Now that the economy has finally turned a corner, Dublin citizens can cast a cool eye over the last 20 crazy years. Some argue that the boomtown transformation of their heretofore-tranquil city has permanently affected its spirit and character. These skeptics (skepticism long being a favorite pastime in the capital city) await the outcome of "Dublin: The Sequel," and their greatest fear is the possibility that the tattered old lady on the Liffey has become a little less unique, a little more like everywhere else.Oh ye of little faith: the rare ole gem that is Dublin is far from buried. The fundamentals—the Georgian elegance of Merrion Square, the Norman drama of Christ Church Cathedral, the foamy pint at an atmospheric pub—are still on hand to gratify. Most of all, there are the locals themselves: the nod and grin when you catch their eye on the street, the eagerness to hear half your life story before they tell you all of theirs, and their paradoxically dark but warm sense of humor. It's expected that 2016 will be an extra-special year in the capital, as centenary celebrations of the fateful 1916 Easter Rising will dominate much of the cultural calendar.

Welcome to Dublin. On arrival at Dublin airport make your way to the Arrivals Hall to meet our representative, followed by a transfer to our group hotel. At the hotel, visit our hospitality desk in the lobby to meet our team who will provide you with useful information regarding pre-embarkation procedures and about your time in Dublin. You will also receive cabin tags for your luggage. Please clearly label the tags with your name and your cabin number on the ship. This evening offers time to relax in preparation for our ‘day out in Dublin’ tomorrow. Our group hotel has a popular restaurant and is close to plenty of corner pubs and cosy restaurants should you wish to ‘share a jar’ or try some local cuisine. Accommodation: Dublin Hotel

Dublin is making a comeback. The decade-long "Celtic Tiger" boom era was quickly followed by the Great Recession, but The Recovery has finally taken a precarious hold. For visitors, this newer and wiser Dublin has become one of western Europe's most popular and delightful urban destinations. Whether or not you're out to enjoy the old or new Dublin, you'll find it a colossally entertaining city, all the more astonishing considering its intimate size.It is ironic and telling that James Joyce chose Dublin as the setting for his famous Ulysses, Dubliners, and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man because it was a "center of paralysis" where nothing much ever changed. Which only proves that even the greats get it wrong sometimes. Indeed, if Joyce were to return to his once-genteel hometown today—disappointed with the city's provincial outlook, he left it in 1902 at the age of 20—and take a quasi-Homeric odyssey through the city (as he so famously does in Ulysses), would he even recognize Dublin as his "Dear Dirty Dumpling, foostherfather of fingalls and dotthergills"?For instance, what would he make of Temple Bar—the city's erstwhile down-at-the-heels neighborhood, now crammed with cafés and trendy hotels and suffused with a nonstop, international-party atmosphere? Or the simple sophistication of the open-air restaurants of the tiny Italian Quarter (named Quartier Bloom after his own creation), complete with sultry tango lessons? Or of the hot–cool Irishness, where every aspect of Celtic culture results in sold-out theaters, from Once, the cult indie movie and Broadway hit, to Riverdance, the old Irish mass-jig recast as a Las Vegas extravaganza? Plus, the resurrected Joyce might be stirred by the songs of Hozier, fired up by the sultry acting of Michael Fassbender, and moved by the award-winning novels of Colum McCann. As for Ireland's capital, it's packed with elegant shops and hotels, theaters, galleries, coffeehouses, and a stunning variety of new, creative little restaurants can be found on almost every street in Dublin, transforming the provincial city that suffocated Joyce into a place almost as cosmopolitan as the Paris to which he fled. And the locals are a hell of a lot more fun! Now that the economy has finally turned a corner, Dublin citizens can cast a cool eye over the last 20 crazy years. Some argue that the boomtown transformation of their heretofore-tranquil city has permanently affected its spirit and character. These skeptics (skepticism long being a favorite pastime in the capital city) await the outcome of "Dublin: The Sequel," and their greatest fear is the possibility that the tattered old lady on the Liffey has become a little less unique, a little more like everywhere else.Oh ye of little faith: the rare ole gem that is Dublin is far from buried. The fundamentals—the Georgian elegance of Merrion Square, the Norman drama of Christ Church Cathedral, the foamy pint at an atmospheric pub—are still on hand to gratify. Most of all, there are the locals themselves: the nod and grin when you catch their eye on the street, the eagerness to hear half your life story before they tell you all of theirs, and their paradoxically dark but warm sense of humor. It's expected that 2016 will be an extra-special year in the capital, as centenary celebrations of the fateful 1916 Easter Rising will dominate much of the cultural calendar.

Dublin, the vibrant capital of Ireland, is a city brimming with energy and resilience. Once under British rule, Dublin has emerged with a distinct sense of identity, leading Ireland as a proud member of the European Union and reflecting its evolving role in modern Europe. The city has been home to some of the world’s most influential literary figures, including Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, W.B. Yeats, and George Bernard Shaw. Iconic landmarks such as Trinity College, home to the esteemed Book of Kells, highlight its storied past, while the city also serves as a hub of artistic and cultural expression, with global musicians like U2, whose impact resonates from their Dublin roots, having invigorated its creative scene. Dublin’s vibrant pub culture offers a lively social fabric, where traditional and contemporary influences merge to create a city to explore both day and night. Choose your favourite ‘Your Choice’ experience for a morning full of all things Irish, with time to explore Dublin this afternoon, before we gather for a Welcome Event this evening. Personalise your exploration with our included ‘Your Choice’ experiences. Option 1- Morning experience: Walking Dublin Dublin’s compact character makes it an ideal one for a leisurely walking tour. This morning, our local guides entertain us with tales of the city’s character-filled history. We will hear stories of Ireland’s emotional past through the eyes of its many artists, manic Lord Mayors and rebellious citizens whilst following the park-side alleys of Dublin’s ‘backyard’, St Stephens Green, to the grand Georgian buildings of Irelands’ first university, Trinity College. Founded by Queen Elizabeth I, the grounds of the college offer 40 acres of academic seclusion from the hustle and bustle of downtown Dublin, while our path slows to hear quotes from Dublin’s most flamboyant son, Oscar Wilde, before stopping to visit the historic Huguenot cemetery and other iconic sites of Ireland’s capital, before returning to the hotel. Option 2 – Morning experience: An EPIC Tale of Emigration Explore one of Dublin’s top sites, focused on Ireland’s favourite topic: emigration. Our ancestry theme allows us to meet one of Ireland’s greatest exports, its people, with a self-guided tour of the award-winning EPIC – the Irish Emigration Museum. Discover what it means to hold Irish heritage, as you meet poets and presidents, singers and suffragettes. You will meet famous folk and families, from Ned Kelly to the Kennedys, as you follow your souvenir-passport to find out where they came from, why they left, and the differences they have made to our everyday lives. Option 3 – Morning experience: The Guinness Story The Guinness brewery opened on this spot over 250 years ago, when Arthur Guinness signed a 900-year lease – there’s only 650 years to go. We will see, hear and smell the secret ingredients as they travel through a series of vast machines, before the self-guided tour ends in the circular panoramic Gravity Bar, with its sweeping views across the city of Dublin. Here, we will enjoy a pint of ‘the black stuff’ while viewing how to pour the perfect pint at the Guinness academy. Choose to make your own way back to the hotel or catch a lift on our coach. Accommodation: Dublin Hotel Meals: Breakfast, Welcome Event canapés

The largest town in the Southeast and Ireland's oldest city, Waterford was founded by the Vikings in the 9th century and was taken over by Strongbow, the Norman invader, with much bloodshed in 1170. The city resisted Cromwell's 1649 attacks, but fell the following year. It did not prosper again until 1783, when George and William Penrose set out to create "plain and cut flint glass, useful and ornamental," and thereby set in motion a glass-manufacturing industry long without equal. The famed glassworks closed after the 2008 financial crisis, but Waterford Crystal has triumphantly risen again from the flames in a smaller, leaner version, opened in 2010 and now relocated to the Mall.

After breakfast, we travel to Kilkenny for a visit to Kilkenny Castle en route to the Douglas Mawson. Considered Ireland’s best preserved medieval city, Kilkenny mixes small town intimacy with a big city buzz. The former home to the seat of the medieval Irish parliaments, it rivalled Dublin in importance which is evident in its imposing Norman buildings and marble-clad facades, even today. Few buildings in Ireland can boast a longer history of continuous occupation than Kilkenny’s monolithic castle and few have a more fascinating family story. Kilkenny Castle’s 800 years of history is associated with the rise and fall of the Marshal and Butler families who rose in nobility from Earls to Dukes. In more recent years they were known for their marriages to famous personalities like Winston Churchill’s cousin, and Ellen Stager, an American heiress who brought quite a fortune into the Butler family. However, by 1922 Kilkenny Castle was embroiled in political problems when it was occupied by Republicans and besieged by troops of the Free State. In 1967, the family sold the castle to the Kilkenny Castle Restoration Committee for a mere £50. If you love a good riches-to-rags story, you will enjoy the story of Kilkenny and its powerful peerage on a self-guided tour of the castle and its grounds. We make our way further south to the county’s namesake, Waterford. Known as the city where culture meets the ‘craic’ (that is Irish for a good time), Waterford is a modern city with a layered history. Invaded by the Norsemen in 914, Waterford became a Viking settlement, which is reflected in its people even today. It emerged from the Middle Ages as a trading port with the wealth from goods that came from as far away as Newfoundland, the profits of which funded the construction of the many Georgian Mansions that line the city’s streets. A town for those who enjoy a good stroll, Waterford is easy on the eye, offers plenty to see and as its reputation suggests, is full of fun. Your time here is free to stroll this easily navigated city, before transferring to the Douglas Mawson. This evening, we complete an important safety briefing, before enjoying a ‘Welcome aboard’ dinner, where we meet our crew and AE Expeditions team. Meals: Breakfast, Dinner onboard

Cork City received its first charter in 1185 from Prince John of Norman England, and it takes its name from the Irish word corcaigh, meaning "marshy place." The original 6th-century settlement was spread over 13 small islands in the River Lee. Major development occurred during the 17th and 18th centuries with the expansion of the butter trade, and many attractive Georgian-design buildings with wide bowfront windows were constructed during this time. As late as 1770 Cork's present-day main streets—Grand Parade, Patrick Street, and the South Mall—were submerged under the Lee. Around 1800, when the Lee was partially dammed, the river divided into two streams that now flow through the city, leaving the main business and commercial center on an island, not unlike Paris's Île de la Cité. As a result, the city has a number of bridges and quays, which, although initially confusing, add greatly to the port's unique character. Cork can be very "Irish" (hurling, Gaelic football, televised plowing contests, music pubs, and peat smoke). But depending on what part of town you're in, Cork can also be distinctly un-Irish—the sort of place where hippies, gays, and farmers drink at the same pub.

Once a port town, always a port town, Cork sits proudly on an island in the middle of the Lee River. Surrounded by water, the city’s salty air tells the story of Irish emigration, with its historical harbour of Cobh and shores of Kinsale, famed as the port of boarding for the Irish who left for foreign lands. If your ancestors are Irish, there is a high chance they came through Cork. Today, the city has a flair for great gigs and modernised traditional dishes and is considered an Irish food mecca that is centred around its restored 18th-century English Market. Our morning shore excursions offer you the opportunity to ‘get the gift of the gab’ or follow those Irish who left their homeland for foreign shores. This afternoon, aboard the Douglas Mawson, we’ll indulge in a quintessential Irish experience with a private whiskey tasting. More than just a spirit, this ‘saintly’ brew embodies Ireland’s essence. A local expert will share their deep passion and knowledge, guiding us through the rich heritage, meticulous craftsmanship, and captivating stories that define this amber treasure. Prepare to immerse yourself in the world of Irish whiskey and discover why it holds such a special place in the heart of Ireland. Personalise your exploration with our included ‘Your Choice’ experiences. Option 1- Morning experience: Cobh, the Titanic Experience & the Queenstown Story We join a tailormade guided walking tour of Cobh, tracing the story of Irish emigration. Seeking a better life, or simply hoping to survive starvation, hundreds of thousands boarded their vessels bound for foreign lands at Cobh, formerly known as Queenstown. This included Annie Moore, a teenager who was the first immigrant to be processed at the newly opened Ellis Island in New York City. Our walking tour leads us to the Titanic Experience. On 11 April 1912, 123 passengers boarded the RMS Titanic in Queenstown (now Cobh), a bustling harbour town, bound for New York. Just days later, these individuals would face one of the most tragic maritime disasters in history. The Titanic Experience Cobh offers a poignant exploration of this fateful journey. Through knowledgeable guides and immersive audiovisual displays, visitors are transported back to that fateful April. The exhibition details the Titanic’s final days and the desperate struggle for survival after the ship struck an iceberg. Personal stories are highlighted, including those passengers who embarked from Cobh. Having ‘survived’ the Titanic Experience we trace the story of Irish emigration, with a self-guided audio tour of ‘The Queenstown Story’ at the Cobh Heritage Centre. The ‘Queenstown Story’ traces Irish emigration since the 1600s, including the transportation of convicts to Australia and the impact of disasters like the Titanic and the Lusitania. The exhibition, housed in Cobh’s restored Victorian railway station, features personal tales, such as Jeremiah Burke’s message in a bottle from the Titanic and Margaret Drury’s convict voyage to Australia. Discover these moving stories and more, reflecting the hardships and hopes of Irish emigrants across the globe. Option 2 – Morning experience: Blarney Castle and the Blarney Stone If every myth, legend and limerick associated with Blarney Castle’s indomitable ‘stone’ were true, the world would be asking it to solve all our problems. Where the stone came from and how its modern-day reputation was conceived is a matter of contention, but there is no doubt that the thousands of travellers who kiss it every week receive ‘the gift of the gab’. Thought to endow all those who kiss it with eloquence and the skill of flattery, the Blarney stone is shrouded in stories. Was it a witch who was saved from drowning that revealed its power? Was it the Lord of Blarneys eloquent reply to the land title demands of Queen Elizabeth I? Was it the Goddess Cliodhna’s hinted reply to a love-lost Cormac McCarthy? Today we will find out the truth. Option 3 – Morning experience: The Seaside Gem of Kinsale We drive to the coast and the picture-perfect town of Kinsale, where we hear stories of naval battles, foreign invasions and shipwrecks. Once a garrison town embroiled with invading navies, Kinsale became the natural landfall for ships sailing from the continent and the Americas. It is in these waters where two of the world’s greatest ocean liners were last seen. In the early hours of 7 May 1915, the Cunard liner Lusitania was struck, only a mere 11 nautical miles off the coast of Kinsale, by a single torpedo shot from a German U-Boat. The people of Kinsale rallied to assist, but within 18 minutes she sank, with only 764 of the 1959 souls on board surviving. There is time to enjoy a stroll around this colourful coastal enclave before returning to Cork for lunch onboard.

Galway is a city in the West of Ireland in the province of Connacht. It lies on the River Corrib between Lough Corrib and Galway Bay and is surrounded by County Galway. It is the fourth most populous urban area in the Republic of Ireland and the sixth most populous city in the island of Ireland. It is both a picturesque and lively city with a wonderful avant-garde culture and a fascinating mixture of locally owned speciality shops, often featuring locally made crafts. Indeed local handcrafts are a feature of the entire region including hand knits, pottery, glass, jewellery and woodwork. The city’s hub is 18th-century Eyre Square, a popular meeting spot surrounded by shops, and traditional pubs that often offer live Irish folk music. Nearby, stone-clad cafes, boutiques and art galleries line the winding lanes of the Latin Quarter, which retains portions of the medieval city walls. The city bears the nickname "The City of the Tribes" because "fourteen tribes" of merchant families led the city in its Hiberno-Norman period. The merchants would have seen themselves as Irish gentry and loyal to the King. They later adopted the term as a badge of honour and pride in defiance of the town's Cromwellian occupier.

The breakfast club meets again this morning as we sail the fabled Cliffs of Moher. Towering over the West Clare coast, the Cliffs of Moher are best seen in the early morning from the sea. Visually spectacular, they sit astride the striking landscape of the Burren on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. At a height of over 200 metres at O’Brien’s Tower, and following the coast for almost 13 kilometres, these ancient cliffs were formed over 320 million years ago, and today form part of the Burren and Cliffs of Moher UNESCO Global Geopark. We enjoy a slow sail along the cliff face, before inching into Galway Bay and tendering to Galway town. This popular west coast seaside town of Galway attracts a steady flow of local visitors. The Irish come here to walk its long promenade and as tradition dictates, kick the walls end for good luck, enjoy fish and chips straight from the newspaper and, of course, ‘go on the gargle’ in its cosy pubs. Personalise your exploration with our included ‘Your Choice’ experiences. Option 1 – Morning experience: Dunguaire Castle Laundered as Ireland’s ‘most photographed castle’ Dunguaire Castle sits on a rocky outcrop on the shores of Galway Bay. Built by the dubious O’Hynes clan in the 16th century, this tower-households many secrets. Famed in song and story even to this day, Dunguaire flaunted its heyday in the 1920’s when it was bought and renovated by Oliver St John Gogarty, the famous surgeon and literary figure. Under his patronage a great Celtic revival in Irish literature encouraged literary revivalists such as W.B. Yeats, his patron Lady Gregory, George Bernard Shaw, Edward Martin, and J.M. Synge. Yeats believed strongly in the Celtic Cardic Tradition and set about reviving the ancient oral customs incorporating them into his plays and poetry. Thirty years later Dunguaire found a new owner. Originally a London fashion house socialite Christobel Lady Ampthill escaped her scandalous past when she fled to Dunguaire – a story unto itself. A visit to Dunguaire Castle offers a morning full of tales of eccentricity. On return to Galway, we enjoy a short orientation tour. Explorers wishing to stay on in Galway can experience this popular town independently, with tender shuttles to the ship available at Galway pier. Option 2 – Full-day experience: Galway and the Workhouse Museum We join a guided exploration of Galway upon our arrival mid-morning. Galway City is rich in culture, art, and history, and has many boutique shops offering the best of Irish crafts, literary works, and artwork. Home to two of the leading colleges in Ireland, Galway has a vibrant culture and is a town for walking. We view The Spanish Arch, that, being Irish, has no connection to Spain whatsoever, before boarding our coach for an hour or so drive through the open countryside of County Galway, where we find a testament to Ireland’s dark days. Wracked with poverty and famines, Ireland struggled throughout the 17th – 19th centuries. Many Irish emigrated, but those who could not were often forced to enter institutions simply known as ‘The Workhouse’. As the name suggests, inmates were made to work long hours for meagre food and lodgings in terrible conditions. One of the cruellest aspects of the workhouse was that it split families, segregating them into separate living areas of women, men, girls and boys. Often family members would never see each other again. We visit a new museum, located in a former workhouse, which aims to show the plight of those who made the ultimate decision in hopes they, and their families, would survive. The museum displays artefacts that are relevant to workhouse life, some of which are the only remaining link to the people who once lived there. After our visit we return to Galway and tender to the ship.

Killybegs The days start early in Killybegs, as this quiet fishing town rumbles to life, and ships with red and blue paint peeling from their hulls quietly depart, ready for a morning's hard work at sea. Located in a scenic part of County Donegal, Killybegs is Ireland's fishing capital, and the salty breeze and pretty streets serve as a revitalising medicine for visitors. The town is also your gateway to some of the country's most majestic coastal scenery, which is dotted with flashing white lighthouses, keeping watch over invigorating seascapes. Killybegs enjoys a privileged position on the coast of north west of Ireland, close to the spectacular Slieve League - a titanic mountain, which explodes upwards from frothing ocean. Walk as close as you dare to the coastline’s sheer drops, or admire the folding cliffs from the best vantage point, down on the water.

The fishing village of Killybegs is gateway to the rugged beauty of Slieve League Cliffs and the dramatic backdrop of Ireland’s own Table Mountain, Ben Bulben. Jutting out of Sligo’s northern edge, the peninsula of Mullaghmore pokes into the North Atlantic. Land and sea meet in confluence along the coast of County Sligo, a landscape of jagged mountain peaks that inspired the work of Nobel-winning poet William Butler Yeats. We sail into the harbour of Killybegs early afternoon with time to explore the nearby cliffs and their cliffside walk or learn about sustainable whiskey distilling at the family owned and operated Adara Distillery. Personalise your exploration with our included ‘Your Choice’ experiences. Option 1 – Afternoon experience: Slieve League Cliffs Slieve League is Ireland’s ultimate sea cliff experience and a signature point on the Wild Atlantic Way. Believed to be Europe’s highest accessible sea cliffs, they rise 2,000 feet from the ocean below. The lookouts here offer unspoiled views of the Atlantic as it slams the coastline of Donegal. Slieve League boasts a raw landscape and challenging lifestyle for those who call County Sligo home. We meet some of these stoic characters at the Tí Linn café and craft shop for a hot drink and scones. The Slieve League Cliffs Centre supports local artisans by selling their handmade specialties including items from the Donegal Tweed company and Triona, a company located only a few miles away at Adara. Option 2 – Afternoon experience: Adara and the Adara Whiskey Distillery For those who would prefer to hear about the most popular ‘spirits’ of the region, we visit the friendly folk of Adara. One of the five designated heritage towns in County Donegal, Adara has built itself a reputation as a village of craftsmen and women. The movement towards uniquely Irish goods is a growth market for the villages scattered throughout Ireland’s isolated peninsulas. It provides work for young people and whole families are typically involved in the production. As home to the popular Triona Design, visitors enjoy weaving demonstrations based on traditional methods. Steeped in tradition the Adara Distillery operations produce An Dúlamán Irish Maritime Gin and Sliabh Liag Whiskeys. Established by two ‘scatterlings’, James and Moira Doherty, who returned to the Sliabh Liag peninsula to build a legacy, the distillery employs 30 people in the village of 700. We tour the distillery to appreciate a sustainable, boutique side of Irish whiskey making. One inspired by the almost lost tradition for a smoky style of spirit, brought up to date with the best distillation know-how. We will learn about the history of Donegal’s distilling heritage and see skilled workers breathing new life into it. All tied together by a tasting of this unique brew.

Nestled behind lofty city walls, Londonderry is a destination of culture, which boasts an increasingly envied reputation. This Northern Irish city is still riding on the momentum of a fantastic 2013, when it was named as UK City of Culture, and singled out as one of Lonely Planet's top 5 destinations to visit. The wonderfully preserved city walls are perhaps Londonderry's most treasured charm, and they encircle 1,450 years of history, and are over 400 years old. The walls came to the fore of the city's history during the Siege of Derry, back in 1688 - when King James's forces attacked, causing mass starvation and suffering over 105 days of stalemate. It takes approximately an hour to wander the entire circuit of the walls, and see their seven gates, and you’ll absorb a feast of information along the way. View the mighty cannons that boomed during the siege, or stop into one of the plentiful cafes, should you need a little refreshment before continuing your journey. St. Columb’s Cathedral, which dates back to 1633, towers over the walled city, and is one of the city's most significant historic sites. Its dreamy spire contains a set of bells that have peeled out melodies here since 1638, making them Ireland's oldest.

Our overnight sailing takes us to Northern Ireland, and the fascinating city of Londonderry. Simply known as Derry to the Nationalist (Catholic) population but still referred to as Londonderry by the Unionist (Protestant) population, this ‘border’ town has seen it all. The sectarian ‘Troubles’ of this predominantly Nationalist city may have blemished its reputation, but in recent years these tensions have eased, and although some suburbs retain their sense of division, strolling the streets is safe and the general population are happy to share stories of their stormy past and ambitious future. We come alongside on the river Foyle, the now open, natural border between the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland. Choose to ‘stay in town’ to hear the city’s fascinating story, or head north to the coast to follow fables of giants and failed dynasties. Personalise your exploration with our included ‘Your Choice’ experiences. Option 1 – Morning experience: Londonderry~Derry – Past, Present, Future Our local guides interpret the story of Londonderry~Derry in this excursion, which is a combination of a walking and coach tour. Having lived through the tumultuous times of ‘The Troubles’ as the locals refer to it, their first-hand experiences immerse us in the era when a word to the wrong person, a stroll on the wrong side of the street, or a misplaced glance, could cost you your life. In recent years, the artists and youth of Londonderry~Derry have painted emotive murals on walls around the city. We pass several of these as our guides explain the city’s tumultuous past. A number of monuments in the Bogside neighbourhood shed even more light on key events, such as the hunger strikes that marred the city. Option 2 – Morning experience: The Ulster Folk Park The Ulster American Folk Park provides a profound insight into the history of Ulster, a province in Northern Ireland with a rich cultural heritage. In the 18th and 19th centuries, over 250,000 people from Ulster emigrated to the United States and Canada. Driven by a mix of economic hardship, land shortages, and political unrest, many sought better opportunities and a new start in North America. The park vividly recreates rural Ulster life, allowing visitors to experience the conditions that prompted this mass emigration. Traditional thatched cottages, bustling village scenes, and detailed exhibits offer a glimpse into the lives left behind. Through immersive displays and historical re-enactments, the park explores the arduous transatlantic journey these emigrants endured, as well as their pioneering spirit in forging new lives. This experience provides a deep understanding of the personal and cultural transformations that defined their migration. Our one-hour drive returns us to Londonderry~Derry with time to explore the city independently this afternoon. (Please note: Due to opening hours, a boxed lunch will be supplied from the ship today, so that you may enjoy your time without interruption) Option 3 – Full-day experience: Dunluce Castle, Giant’s Causeway Northern Ireland is blessed with impressive natural scenery: vast valleys, glittering lakes and cliffs hoisted up from the Atlantic. We visit its most famous natural attraction, the Giant’s Causeway. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Giant’s Causeway consists of some 40,000 interlocking basalt columns lifted from the ocean by volcanic activity over 60 million years ago. Of course, according to legend, giants strode across columns over the sea from Scotland, creating what looks like a giant pathway of stepping-stones that start on land and disappear into the ocean. After lunch at a local restaurant, we follow the Scenic Causeway Road to Dunluce Castle. Once the headquarters of the MacDonnell clan, the castle fell victim to a violent storm and was abandoned. Its ruins and spectacular backdrop have been popular recently, after it was used as the Castle of Pyke in the famous series Game of Thrones. Returning to Londonderry~Derry, we enjoy a short driving tour before returning to the ship.

Before English and Scottish settlers arrived in the 1600s, Belfast was a tiny village called Béal Feirste ("sandbank ford") belonging to Ulster's ancient O'Neill clan. With the advent of the Plantation period (when settlers arrived in the 1600s), Sir Arthur Chichester, from Devon in southwestern England, received the city from the English Crown, and his son was made Earl of Donegall. Huguenots fleeing persecution from France settled near here, bringing their valuable linen-work skills. In the 18th century, Belfast underwent a phenomenal expansion—its population doubled every 10 years, despite an ever-present sectarian divide. Although the Anglican gentry despised the Presbyterian artisans—who, in turn, distrusted the native Catholics—Belfast's growth continued at a dizzying speed. The city was a great Victorian success story, an industrial boomtown whose prosperity was built on trade, especially linen and shipbuilding. Famously (or infamously), the Titanic was built here, giving Belfast, for a time, the nickname "Titanic Town." Having laid the foundation stone of the city's university in 1845, Queen Victoria returned to Belfast in 1849 (she is recalled in the names of buildings, streets, bars, monuments, and other places around the city), and in the same year, the university opened under the name Queen's College. Nearly 40 years later, in 1888, Victoria granted Belfast its city charter. Today its population is nearly 300,000, tourist numbers have increased, and this dramatically transformed city is enjoying an unparalleled renaissance.This is all a welcome change from the period when news about Belfast meant reports about "the Troubles." Since the 1994 ceasefire, Northern Ireland's capital city has benefited from major hotel investment, gentrified quaysides (or strands), a sophisticated new performing arts center, and major initiatives to boost tourism. Although the 1996 bombing of offices at Canary Wharf in London disrupted the 1994 peace agreement, the ceasefire was officially reestablished on July 20, 1997, and this embattled city began its quest for a newfound identity.Since 2008, the city has restored all its major public buildings such as museums, churches, theaters, City Hall, Ulster Hall—and even the glorious Crown Bar—spending millions of pounds on its built heritage. A gaol that at the height of the Troubles held some of the most notorious murderers involved in paramilitary violence is now a major visitor attraction.Belfast's city center is made up of three roughly contiguous areas that are easy to navigate on foot. From the south end to the north, it's about an hour's leisurely walk.

It is fair to say Belfast has endured its share of turbulent times. Famines, disease, invasions and recessions have painted a picture of a resilient city, but it was the more recent period known as ‘The Troubles’ that defined its image of division. Barbed wire, armed soldiers, and constant bomb searches kept tourists away. Today, however, Belfast has transformed, thanks to open political dialogue and foreign investment. The city feels lighter, as if a heavy burden has been lifted from its shoulders. Our day in Belfast is filled with stories of the workers who toiled for 14 hours a day to build the world’s most glamorous ship, the Titanic, the employment it created, and the race to finish her. Had they taken their time, would things have been different for the Titanic? Located on the site where the ship was built, the dockyard’s Titanic Experience may answer a few of our questions. From the dockyards, our tour skips ahead to the days of ‘The Troubles’ as we are guided through Unionist and Nationalist neighbourhoods. The occasional security gate is a reminder that the island is still contested, but nowadays the city is split into seven virtual quarters, or cultural zones; Cathedral Quarter, Titanic Quarter, the Gaeltacht Quarter, Smithfield Market and Library Quarter, Linen Quarter, Market Quarter and Queen's Quarter. rather than walled ones. We peek at Belfast’s ‘quarters’ before turning south and returning to Dublin for our final night in Ireland’s capital. Our evening is a farewell to our fellow explorers and a celebration of all things Irish as we kick up our heels at an authentic traditional Irish dancing show, accompanied by a few ‘jars’ and a delicious Irish Farewell dinner. Accommodation: Dublin Hotel Meals: Breakfast, Dinner

Dublin is making a comeback. The decade-long "Celtic Tiger" boom era was quickly followed by the Great Recession, but The Recovery has finally taken a precarious hold. For visitors, this newer and wiser Dublin has become one of western Europe's most popular and delightful urban destinations. Whether or not you're out to enjoy the old or new Dublin, you'll find it a colossally entertaining city, all the more astonishing considering its intimate size.It is ironic and telling that James Joyce chose Dublin as the setting for his famous Ulysses, Dubliners, and A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man because it was a "center of paralysis" where nothing much ever changed. Which only proves that even the greats get it wrong sometimes. Indeed, if Joyce were to return to his once-genteel hometown today—disappointed with the city's provincial outlook, he left it in 1902 at the age of 20—and take a quasi-Homeric odyssey through the city (as he so famously does in Ulysses), would he even recognize Dublin as his "Dear Dirty Dumpling, foostherfather of fingalls and dotthergills"?For instance, what would he make of Temple Bar—the city's erstwhile down-at-the-heels neighborhood, now crammed with cafés and trendy hotels and suffused with a nonstop, international-party atmosphere? Or the simple sophistication of the open-air restaurants of the tiny Italian Quarter (named Quartier Bloom after his own creation), complete with sultry tango lessons? Or of the hot–cool Irishness, where every aspect of Celtic culture results in sold-out theaters, from Once, the cult indie movie and Broadway hit, to Riverdance, the old Irish mass-jig recast as a Las Vegas extravaganza? Plus, the resurrected Joyce might be stirred by the songs of Hozier, fired up by the sultry acting of Michael Fassbender, and moved by the award-winning novels of Colum McCann. As for Ireland's capital, it's packed with elegant shops and hotels, theaters, galleries, coffeehouses, and a stunning variety of new, creative little restaurants can be found on almost every street in Dublin, transforming the provincial city that suffocated Joyce into a place almost as cosmopolitan as the Paris to which he fled. And the locals are a hell of a lot more fun! Now that the economy has finally turned a corner, Dublin citizens can cast a cool eye over the last 20 crazy years. Some argue that the boomtown transformation of their heretofore-tranquil city has permanently affected its spirit and character. These skeptics (skepticism long being a favorite pastime in the capital city) await the outcome of "Dublin: The Sequel," and their greatest fear is the possibility that the tattered old lady on the Liffey has become a little less unique, a little more like everywhere else.Oh ye of little faith: the rare ole gem that is Dublin is far from buried. The fundamentals—the Georgian elegance of Merrion Square, the Norman drama of Christ Church Cathedral, the foamy pint at an atmospheric pub—are still on hand to gratify. Most of all, there are the locals themselves: the nod and grin when you catch their eye on the street, the eagerness to hear half your life story before they tell you all of theirs, and their paradoxically dark but warm sense of humor. It's expected that 2016 will be an extra-special year in the capital, as centenary celebrations of the fateful 1916 Easter Rising will dominate much of the cultural calendar.

After breakfast, we bid farewell to all the Irish who have shared their stories with us, past and present, with a smile on our face and a story on our lips. An airport transfer shared with your fellow explorers is included for your onward flight. Meals: Breakfast