Transatlantic – Montevideo to Cape Verde

Uruguay’s capital city hugs the eastern bank of the Río de la Plata. A massive coastal promenade (malecón) that passes fine beaches, restaurants, and numerous parks recalls the sunny sophistications of the Mediterranean and is always dotted with Montevideans strolling, exercising, and lounging along the water. Montevideo has its share of glitzy shopping avenues and modern office buildings, balanced with its historic old city and sumptuous colonial architecture, as well as numerous leafy plazas and parks. It is hard not to draw comparisons to its sister city Buenos Aires across the river, and indeed Montevideo strikes many as a calmer, more manageable incarnation of Argentina's capital.When the weather's good, La Rambla, a 22-km (14-mile) waterfront avenue that links the Old City with the eastern suburbs and changes names about a dozen times, gets packed with fishermen, ice-cream vendors, and joggers. Around sunset, volleyball and soccer games wind down as couples begin to appear for evening strolls. Polls consistently rate Montevideo as having the highest quality of life of any city in Latin America. After one visit here, especially on a lovely summer evening, you probably will agree.

Discover the charm of Uruguay’s capital 

Before boarding the ship, spend time getting to know Montevideo. Follow the Rambla, the city's famous waterfront promenade that hugs nearly 14 miles of coastline, then wander inland to Ciudad Vieja, where colonial architecture lines cobbled streets and the scent of grilling meat drifts from Mercado del Puerto. This is a UNESCO City of Literature too, so duck into one of its dozens of independent bookshops between palm-lined plazas and quiet churches with views out over the water. 

In the afternoon, board the MS Fram and settle into your cabin. 

Discover hidden beaches and Atlantic viewpoints

 Today we visit the so-called 'Island of Magic', the capital of Santa Catarina Island in southern Brazil. Florianópolis is a place shaped by the elements: wild coastline, hidden coves, and quiet stretches of forest that spill down to the water's edge. There's no single way to experience it. Follow a trail to a secluded beach, find a viewpoint that opens up over the Atlantic, or simply slow down and let the landscape set the pace. It's the kind of place that feels like a discovery, however you choose to explore it. 

According to Salvador's adopted son Jorge Amado, "In Salvador, magic becomes part of the every-day." From the shimmering golden light of sunset over the Baía do Todos os Santos, to the rhythmic beats that race along the streets, Salvador, while no longer Brazil's capital, remains one of its most captivating cities. A large dose of its exoticism comes down to its African heritage—at least 70% of its 2,675,000 population is classified as Afro-Brazilian—and how it has blended into Brazil's different strands, from the native Indians to the Christian colonizers. Salvadorans may tell you that you can visit a different church every day of the year, which is almost true—the city has about 300. Churches whose interiors are covered with gold leaf were financed by the riches of the Portuguese colonial era, when slaves masked their traditional religious beliefs under a thin Catholic veneer. And partly thanks to modern-day acceptance of those beliefs, Salvador has become the fount of Candomblé, a religion based on personal dialogue with the orixás, a family of African deities closely linked to nature and the Catholic saints. The influence of Salvador's African heritage on Brazilian music has also turned the city into one of the musical capitals of Brazil, resulting in a myriad of venues to enjoy live music across the city, along with international acclaim for exponents like Gilberto Gil, Caetano Veloso, and Daniela Mercury. Salvador's economy today is focused on telecommunications and tourism. The still-prevalent African culture draws many tourists—this is the best place in Brazil to hear African music, learn or watch African dance, and see capoeira, a martial art developed by slaves. In the district of Pelourinho, many colorful 18th- and 19th-century houses remain, part of the reason why this is the center of the tourist trade. Salvador sprawls across a peninsula surrounded by the Baía de Todos os Santos on one side and the Atlantic Ocean on the other. The city has about 50 km (31 miles) of coastline. The original city, referred to as the Centro Histórica (Historical Center), is divided into the Cidade Alta (Upper City), also called Pelourinho, and Cidade Baixa (Lower City). The Cidade Baixa is a commercial area—known as Comércio—that runs along the port and is the site of Salvador's indoor market, Mercado Modelo. You can move between the upper and lower cities on foot, via the landmark Elevador Lacerda, behind the market, or on the Plano Inclinado, a funicular lift, which connects Rua Guindaste dos Padres on Comércio with the alley behind Cathedral Basílica. From the Cidade Histórica you can travel north along the bay to the hilltop Igreja de Nosso Senhor do Bonfim. You can also head south to the point, guarded by the Forte Santo Antônio da Barra, where the bay waters meet those of the Atlantic. This area on Salvador's southern tip is home to the trendy neighborhoods of Barra, Ondina, and Rio Vermelho, with many museums, theaters, shops, and restaurants. Beaches along the Atlantic coast and north of Forte Santo Antônio da Barra are among the city's cleanest. Many are illuminated at night and have bars and restaurants that stay open late.

Experience the city’s pulsing energy

Brazil's first colonial capital is one of Latin America's most compelling cities. African, indigenous, and Portuguese influences collide here, creating an atmosphere you won't find anywhere else. Explore Salvador at your leisure, from its cobbled streets and rainbow-coloured houses, to the beautiful beaches. 

This vibrant metropolis has a spirit that's halfway between that of the modern cities of Brazil's South and of the traditional northeastern centers. It offers both insight on the past and a window to the future.It was in Pernambuco State, formerly a captaincy, that the most violent battles between the Dutch and the Portuguese took place. Under the Portuguese, the capital city was the nearby community of Olinda. But beginning in 1637 and during the Dutch turn at the reins (under the powerful count Maurício de Nassau), both Olinda and Recife were greatly developed.The city has beautiful buildings alongside the rivers that remind many visitors of Europe. Unfortunately, huge swathes of 19th-century buildings were razed to make way for modern structures. As a result, the center of the city has pockets of neocolonial splendor surrounded by gap-toothed modern giants. Today Recife is a leader in health care and has benefited from significant government investment in recent years, resulting in a boom in infrastructure and construction industries. It's also Brazil's third-largest gastronomic center—it's almost impossible to get a bad meal here.Recife is built around three rivers and connected by 49 bridges. Its name comes from the recifes (reefs) that line the coast. Because of this unique location, water and light often lend the city interesting textures. In the morning, when the tide recedes from Boa Viagem Beach, the rocks of the reefs slowly reappear. Pools of water are formed, fish flap around beachgoers, and the rock formations dry into odd colors. And if the light is just right on the Rio Capibaribe, the ancient buildings of Recife Antigo (Old Recife) are reflected off the river's surface in a watercolor display.

Two cities shaped by Atlantic history

Today we explore two of the most compelling cities on Brazil's Atlantic coast. Recife is a vibrant metropolis shaped by rivers, bridges, and coral-fringed shores, its historic quarter a testament to the cultural crossroads that defined Dutch and Portuguese Brazil. 

Start your Expedition Cruise in Praia, the capital of Cape Verde, located in the south of Santiago Island. You can explore its old centre overlooking the ocean and its historical buildings with transom windows. In the old quarter, you can also learn about the diversity of the archipelago’s cultural origins in the Ethnographic Museum. To finish your day, head to the harbour to visit the Diogo Gomes statue, paying homage to the man who discovered the archipelago in 1460.

Stroll one of the oldest streets in the tropics

Today we explore Praia, the vibrant capital of Cape Verde and gateway to the island of Santiago. This is a city shaped by centuries of Atlantic crossings, where African, Portuguese, and Creole influences blend in the streets, the music, and the flavours. At your leisure, wander through colourful markets, take in ocean views from the old plateau, and get a feel for the rhythm of island life.  

Your next stop will be Cape Verde’s cultural capital, Mindelo. Get along with the locals listening to the real morna in the bars of the old town and sipping the local drink, a sugarcane spirit. This island is also known by its British and Portuguese colonial architecture and pastel-coloured houses, the municipal market and the facades of the old Governor’s Palace.

Witness a geological wander 

Today we cross from Mindelo to the island of Santo Antão, one of the most spectacular volcanic landscapes in the Atlantic. Towering basalt mountains give way to deep green valleys and terraced agriculture carved into ancient lava flows. The microclimates shift dramatically, from arid volcanic slopes to lush cloud-fed forests, a place where geology, climate, and human resilience have shaped life in equal measure. 

Disembark in Cape Verde

Your voyage ends on the island of Sal, where African and Portuguese influences blend with salt-flat landscapes and endless Atlantic horizons. Known for golden beaches, colourful culture, and over 350 days of sunshine a year, Sal is a warm and fitting finale to your crossing. Bid farewell to the Expedition Team and fellow travellers, and leave the ship with lasting memories of your journey from South America to Africa.