Aleutians to Katmai: Wild Alaska Revealed (Northbound)

Vancouver is a delicious juxtaposition of urban sophistication and on-your-doorstep wilderness adventure. The mountains and seascape make the city an outdoor playground for hiking, skiing, kayaking, cycling, and sailing—and so much more—while the cuisine and arts scenes are equally diverse, reflecting the makeup of Vancouver's ethnic (predominantly Asian) mosaic. Vancouver is consistently ranked as one of the world's most livable cities, and it's easy for visitors to see why. It's beautiful, it's outdoorsy, and there's a laidback West Coast vibe. On the one hand, there's easy access to a variety of outdoor activities, a fabulous variety of beaches, and amazing parks. At the same time, the city has a multicultural vitality and cosmopolitan flair. The attraction is as much in the range of food choices—the fresh seafood and local produce are some of North America's best—as it is in the museums, shopping, and nightlife.Vancouver's landscaping also adds to the city's walking appeal. In spring, flowerbeds spill over with tulips and daffodils while sea breezes scatter scented cherry blossoms throughout Downtown; in summer office workers take to the beaches, parks, and urban courtyards for picnic lunches and laptop meetings. More than 8 million visitors each year come to Vancouver, Canada's third-largest metropolitan area. Because of its peninsula location, traffic flow is a contentious issue. Thankfully, Vancouver is wonderfully walkable, especially in the downtown core. The North Shore is a scoot across the harbor, and the rapid-transit system to Richmond and the airport means that staying in the more affordable ’burbs doesn't have to be synonymous with sacrificing convenience. The mild climate, exquisite natural scenery, and relaxed outdoor lifestyle keep attracting residents, and the number of visitors is increasing for the same reasons. People often get their first glimpse of Vancouver when catching an Alaskan cruise, and many return at some point to spend more time here.

Set sail from Vancouver 

Your adventure begins in Vancouver, a Pacific seaport framed by steep mountains and dense coastal forest. Wander the Victorian streets of Gastown, or walk the seawall past the towering cedar groves of Stanley Park, a first taste of the wilderness ahead. The seafood and farm-to-table dining here is exceptional. We'd recommend arriving a day early to give yourself time to explore the city.  

Come evening, your ship awaits. Settle into your cabin, meet the Expedition Team, and attend the safety briefing. Tomorrow, we sail north. 

Marine wildlife along the Pacific coast  

The Inside Passage is one of the great coastal routes of the world, with over 900 miles of sheltered Pacific waterway, carved by glaciers and fringed by ancient forest. Today we venture beyond its shelter into the open waters of Queen Charlotte Sound and Hecate Strait, where the island of Haida Gwaii lies to the west.   

These are productive seas. Keep watch for humpback and fin whales, orcas, minke whales, and Pacific white-sided dolphins. This is a voyage that rewards those who keep their eyes on the horizon.  

Rudyerd Bay is one of the highlights of the Misty Fiords, 40 miles east of Ketchikan, along the Inside Passage. This fjord cuts through steep-sided mountainous terrain and extends far into the mainland. The scenery is stunning, with dramatic thousand-foot waterfalls plunging down rainforest covered cliffs to the water below.

Ancient rainforests and Łingít culture

These three days carry us deep into the rainforests of the Tongass National Forest. At Misty Fjords, a pristine wilderness of towering evergreens, waterfalls, and snowcapped peaks, we explore by Zodiac or kayak, watching for mountain goats, harbour seals, and bald eagles.

From there, we sail to Klawock on the western shore of Prince of Wales Island, where the Totem Park’s 21 carved poles pay tribute to Łingít tradition.

We end at Sitka: Łingít homeland, Russian outpost, and American purchase, where Mount Edgecumbe volcano rises from the sea and the Russian Orthodox Cathedral stands at the heart of town.

Klawock is a city in Prince of Wales–Hyder Census Area, in the U.S. state of Alaska, on the west coast of Prince of Wales Island, on Klawock Inlet, across from Klawock Island. The population was 755 at the 2010 census, down from 854 in 2000.

It's hard not to like Sitka, with its eclectic blend of Alaska Native, Russian, and American history and its dramatic and beautiful open-ocean setting. This is one of the best Inside Passage towns to explore on foot, with St. Michael's Cathedral, Sheldon Jackson Museum, Castle Hill, Sitka National Historical Park, and the Alaska Raptor Center topping the must-see list.Sitka was home to the Kiksádi clan of the Tlingit people for centuries prior to the 18th-century arrival of the Russians under the direction of territorial governor Alexander Baranof, who believed the region was ideal for the fur trade. The governor also coveted the Sitka site for its beauty, mild climate, and economic potential; in the island's massive timber forests he saw raw materials for shipbuilding. Its location offered trading routes as far west as Asia and as far south as California and Hawaii. In 1799 Baranof built St. Michael Archangel—a wooden fort and trading post 6 miles north of the present town.Strong disagreements arose shortly after the settlement. The Tlingits attacked the settlers and burned their buildings in 1802. Baranof, however, was away in Kodiak at the time. He returned in 1804 with a formidable force—including shipboard cannons—and attacked the Tlingits at their fort near Indian River, site of the present-day 105-acre Sitka National Historical Park, forcing many of them north to Chichagof Island.By 1821 the Tlingits had reached an accord with the Russians, who were happy to benefit from the tribe's hunting skills. Under Baranof and succeeding managers, the Russian-American Company and the town prospered, becoming known as the Paris of the Pacific. The community built a major shipbuilding and repair facility, sawmills, and forges, and even initiated an ice industry, shipping blocks of ice from nearby Swan Lake to the booming San Francisco market. The settlement that was the site of the 1802 conflict is now called Old Sitka. It is a state park and listed as a National Historic Landmark.The town declined after its 1867 transfer from Russia to the United States, but it became prosperous again during World War II, when it served as a base for the U.S. effort to drive the Japanese from the Aleutian Islands. Today its most important industries are fishing, government, and tourism.

Today, commercial fishing is king in Kodiak. Despite its small population—about 6,475 people scattered among the several islands in the Kodiak group—the city is among the busiest fishing ports in the United States. The harbor is also an important supply point for small communities on the Aleutian Islands and the Alaska Peninsula.Visitors to the island tend to follow one of two agendas: either immediately fly out to a remote lodge for fishing, kayaking, or bear viewing; or stay in town and access whatever pursuits they can reach from the limited road system. If the former is too pricey an option, consider combining the two: drive the road system to see what can be seen inexpensively, then add a fly-out or charter-boat excursion to a remote lodge or wilderness access point.Floatplane and boat charters are available from Kodiak to many remote attractions, chief among them the Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge , which covers four islands in the Gulf of Alaska: Kodiak, Afognak, Ban, and Uganik.

The ancestral homeland of the Sugpiaq

Known as the 'Emerald Isle', Kodiak rises from the Gulf of Alaska in a sweep of lush temperate forest and rugged shoreline. This is the ancestral homeland of the Sugpiaq people, whose connection to these islands runs thousands of years deep.

We’ll spend two days here, visiting Kodiak town and a small coastal community to learn about local culture and traditions first-hand. Out on the water, we search for humpback whales, sea otters, and harbour seals. The Kodiak National Wildlife Refuge, covering roughly two-thirds of the island, is home to around 3,500 Kodiak brown bears, a subspecies found nowhere else on Earth.

The crumpled peaks, and tranquil scenery, of Dutch Harbor belies its history as one of the few places on American soil to have been directly attacked by the Japanese - who bombed the significant US military base here during the Second World War. Located on a string of islands, which loops down into the Pacific from Alaska, a visit to this Aleutian Island destination offers comprehensive military history, and extraordinary ocean scenery. Hike the volcanic, gloriously green landscapes, and look out for wonderful wildlife, like bald eagles, as they survey the surroundings. You can also watch on in awe, as incredible marine mammals crash through the waves just offshore.Dutch Harbor, gives you the chance to sample some of the rich local fishing heritage. Why not book yourself onto a voyage aboard a working fishing boat, to see for yourself how richly filled the waters of the Bering Sea are, as the hard-working fishermen pull bountiful supplies of cod and pollock from the water? The fish plucked from the Bering Sea are shipped to dining tables across America, and you’ll quickly see why Dutch Harbor is one of the US's most important fishing locations

Ring of Fire

We arrive first at Dutch Harbor on Unalaska Island, the country’s busiest commercial fishing port by volume, set against the looming profile of Mount Makushin, an active volcano reaching 6,680 feet.

You’ll learn about the Unangan people have called these islands home for at least 9,000 years, visit the Museum of the Aleutians, the Russian Orthodox Cathedral, or the WWII museum commemorating the Battle of Dutch Harbor in 1942.

From there, we venture deeper into the chain: a world of volcanic ridgelines, cliff-nesting puffins, sea lions, and coast-skimming seabirds. We land by Zodiac where few ever travel.

After a day at sea, our final stop is Unga Island, where the ghost village of Unga — first settled in 1833 and abandoned in 1969 — stands slowly yielding to wildflowers and tundra. It’s an eerie, affecting place.

Chuginadak Island is located in the Islands of Four Mountains of the Aleutian archipelago. The western part of the island is dominated by Mount Cleveland, one of the most active volcanoes in the Aleutian arc. A narrow strip of land separates the volcano from the rugged and lower eastern side of the island.

The Aleutian island of Unga holds an ancient petrified wood forest and a more recent ghost town that was the site of a small gold rush in the late 1800s and early 1900s. The village was eventually abandoned in the 1960’s and now has a somewhat somber appearance. Many of the houses have collapsed and are overgrown with brilliant fuchsia fireweed wildflowers. From a distance the church looks intact, but up closer it is apparent that the roof is standing on the ground, and the walls have completely collapsed. Great Horned Owls nest near the church and in the bay kittiwakes, Double Crested and Pelagic Cormorants, Common Murres and Tufted Puffins can be seen.

Geographic Harbour is the heart of the Katmai National Park and Preserve. The distinctive rocky cliffs are characterised by white marks that are the remains of ash deposits that accumulated following a volcanic eruption. Explore the Geographic Haber and its tall cliffs in more detail as you board a Zodiac® inflatable with a National Geographic Expert.

Spot brown bears in Katmai National Park

Katmai National Park spans roughly four million acres of the Alaskan Peninsula. It’s home to around 18 volcanoes, including seven active since 1900, and shelters the world’s highest concentration of protected brown bears: around 2,000 in total.  

We scout from the ship deck and in Zodiacs, watching bears work the shoreline: digging for clams, fishing in the shallows, moving through the coastal grasses with the unhurried confidence of a species at the top of the food chain. Depending on conditions, we’ll explore Geographic Harbor, Kinak Bay, or Kukak Bay. Patience is richly rewarded here. 

The tiny city of Whittier has just over 200 residents. It’s around 58 miles southeast of Anchorage in Alaska.

Disembark in Whittier’s wild fjords

Your expedition ends in Whittier, a small town of a few hundred residents set between soaring mountains and the deep waters of Prince William Sound. This is one of Alaska’s most dramatic settings: glaciers descend from the ranges above, waterfalls cascade down sheer rock faces, and the Sound stretches across 10,000 square miles of fjords, islands, and protected waterways, home to humpback whales, sea otters, and countless seabirds.

From here, a transfer takes you to Anchorage. To make the most of your time in this extraordinary region, we recommend joining our post-voyage programme.