Rosyth to Reykjavik

Edinburgh is to London as poetry is to prose, as Charlotte Brontë once wrote. One of the world's stateliest cities and proudest capitals, it's built—like Rome—on seven hills, making it a striking backdrop for the ancient pageant of history. In a skyline of sheer drama, Edinburgh Castle watches over the capitalcity, frowning down on Princes Street’s glamour and glitz. But despite its rich past, the city’s famous festivals, excellent museums and galleries, as well as the modern Scottish Parliament, are reminders that Edinburgh has its feet firmly in the 21st century. Nearly everywhere in Edinburgh (the burgh is always pronounced burra in Scotland) there are spectacular buildings, whose Doric, Ionic, and Corinthian pillars add touches of neoclassical grandeur to the largely Presbyterian backdrop. Large gardens are a strong feature of central Edinburgh, where the city council is one of the most stridently conservationist in Europe. Arthur's Seat, a mountain of bright green and yellow furze, rears up behind the spires of the Old Town. This child-size mountain jutting 822 feet above its surroundings has steep slopes and little crags, like a miniature Highlands set down in the middle of the busy city. Appropriately, these theatrical elements match Edinburgh's character—after all, the city has been a stage that has seen its fair share of romance, violence, tragedy, and triumph. Modern Edinburgh has become a cultural capital, staging the Edinburgh International Festival and the Fringe Festival in every possible venue each August. The stunning Museum of Scotland complements the city’s wealth of galleries and artsy hangouts. Add Edinburgh’s growing reputation for food and nightlife and you have one of the world’s most beguiling cities. Today the city is the second most important financial center in the United Kingdom, and the fifth most important in Europe. The city regularly is ranked near the top in quality-of-life surveys. Accordingly, New Town apartments on fashionable streets sell for considerable sums. In some senses the city is showy and materialistic, but Edinburgh still supports learned societies, some of which have their roots in the Scottish Enlightenment. The Royal Society of Edinburgh, for example, established in 1783 "for the advancement of learning and useful knowledge," remains an important forum for interdisciplinary activities. Even as Edinburgh moves through the 21st century, its tall guardian castle remains the focal point of the city and its venerable history. Take time to explore the streets—peopled by the spirits of Mary, Queen of Scots; Sir Walter Scott; and Robert Louis Stevenson—and pay your respects to the world's best-loved terrier, Greyfriars Bobby. In the evenings you can enjoy candlelit restaurants or a folk ceilidh (pronounced kay-lee, a traditional Scottish dance with music), though you should remember that you haven't earned your porridge until you've climbed Arthur's Seat. Should you wander around a corner, say, on George Street, you might see not an endless cityscape, but blue sea and a patchwork of fields. This is the county of Fife, beyond the inlet of the North Sea called the Firth of Forth—a reminder, like the mountains to the northwest that can be glimpsed from Edinburgh's highest points, that the rest of Scotland lies within easy reach.

Just over ten miles to the north-west of Edinburgh Rosyth is a hearty welcome to Scotland's scenery and sophistication. Cross beside the spectacular iron span of the Forth Bridge – a historic world heritage site that has been a Scottish landmark since 1889 – to reach Edinburgh’s treasures. Or historic Dunfermline is even closer where Robert the Bruce lies in rest along with 11 other Scottish monarchs from history. Most visitors to Rosyth will journey to Edinburgh - the elegant Scottish Capital which sprawls across a glorious setting of seven hills. An imposing 7th-century castle dominates proceedings crowning the city and perching on an elevated volcanic plug. Below you'll find cobbled streets of endless historical charm. Bagpipes ring down the beautiful Royal Mile - a steep rise up from the Scottish Parliament building towards the castle. The magical cafes and eateries along this stretch have attracted fame as the locations where JK Rowling penned the Harry Potter novels – surely inspired by the historic charm all around her. Flower-dressed pubs serve those in need of a little refreshment or a dram or two of the local whiskies produced nearby. With royal pageantry world-class museums and uproarious festivities Edinburgh is a grand and beautiful - yet unpretentious and welcoming - city to absorb. Get the best view of Edinburgh by ascending to the summit of Arthur’s Seat. From this esteemed viewpoint you can admire an immense 360-degree view of the city's skyline and look across the North Sea's massive inlet back to the port at Rosyth.

The port of Invergordon is your gateway to the Great Glen, an area of Scotland that includes Loch Ness and the city of Inverness. Inverness, the capital of the Highlands, has the flavor of a Lowland town, its winds blowing in a sea-salt air from the Moray Firth. The Great Glen is also home to one of the world's most famous monster myths: in 1933, during a quiet news week, the editor of a local paper decided to run a story about a strange sighting of something splashing about in Loch Ness. But there's more to look for here besides Nessie, including inland lochs, craggy and steep-sided mountains, rugged promontories, deep inlets, brilliant purple and emerald moorland, and forests filled with astonishingly varied wildlife, including mountain hares, red deer, golden eagles, and ospreys.

Promising epic Highlands scenery and monstrous lochs Invergordon welcomes you to the heart of Scotland's land of castles stories and scenery. Taste the prized Scottish gold in a glass as you swirl and sample the produce of history-rich distilleries or lace up your hiking boots to explore the Great Glen's wild mountains and green and gold blotched moorlands. Sleepy Invergordon provides a charming welcome ashore and you'll immediately enjoy stunning views across the widespread of the Firth. Loch Ness is a massive expanse of still water surrounded by emerald fortress-studded hills. What's lurking beneath has been the subject of intense speculation and captured the world's imagination since 1933. Cruise the loch on a boat trip and keep an eye out for any ripples disturbing the surface - perhaps you will be lucky enough to discover the truth about Nessie's mystery. The River Ness flows on to Inverness the Capital of the Highlands which is overlooked by the sandstone rise of Inverness Castle. The fairytale Cawdor Castle is also within reach set among immaculate gardens and entered via an impressive drawbridge. The castle's links to Shakespeare's Macbeth are often mentioned but in truth they are a little tenuous as this castle was built after King Macbeth's death. Fort George meanwhile is a colossal military institution spread across a huge expanse. Visit to be immersed in the life of a soldier as you wander among the vast battlements amid a sea of redbrick military installations.

Exploring the sandstone cliff faces of the Isle of Noss will reveal ledges loaded with gannets, puffins, guillemots, shags, kittiwakes, Razorbills, fulmars and Great Skuas. The island was recognized as a National Nature Reserve in 1955, and has one of Europe’s largest and most diverse seabird colonies. Sheep have grazed the inland hillsides of Noss since the late 1800s and early 1900s when around twenty people lived on the island to manage the sheep farm. Along with the sheep, shaggy Shetland ponies graze the windblown slopes of Noss.

Exploring the sandstone cliff faces of the Isle of Noss will reveal ledges loaded with gannets puffins guillemots shags kittiwakes Razorbills fulmars and Great Skuas. The island was recognized as a National Nature Reserve in 1955 and has one of Europe’s largest and most diverse seabird colonies. Sheep have grazed the inland hillsides of Noss since the late 1800s and early 1900s when around twenty people lived on the island to manage the sheep farm. Along with the sheep shaggy Shetland ponies graze the windblown slopes of Noss.

The Vestmanna bird cliffs are near vertical, volcanic cliffs that rise steeply out of the ocean to a height of over 600 meters. They are impressively covered with innumerable bird nesting sites as well rare and hardy vegetation. Literally tens of thousands of seabirds can be seen soaring along the cliffs, sitting on nests as well as swimming across the water. Species include numerous kittiwakes, Common Guillemots, Black Guillemots and the endearing Atlantic Puffin. In addition, several waterfalls cascade down in graceful mists from hundreds of meters in the air and explorations reveal a series of sea caves ranging from modest in size to enormous.

Surrounded by the mountains of Hægstafjall, Økslin, Loysingafjall, and Moskurfjall, Vestmanna sits quietly on the banks of Streymoy, on the North Atlantic Ocean. With 1,200 inhabitants, the colourful little village itself is lovely; a few shops and cafes selling locally made cakes and handicrafts, as well as the island’s native seafood soup dish. While those wishing to stretch their legs will enjoy the surrounding area for its stunning countryside, Vestmanna’s main attraction is beyond any doubt its bird cliffs. Youi don’t have to be a birder to appreciate these magnificent cliffs, although if you are the cliffs are the stuff of dreams. At almost 700-metres high (and six kilometres long), the cliffs rise steeply out of the water and are covered with tens of thousands of seabirds, zooming through the air, swooping into the water and nesting in the crevices. The near vertical cliffs are home to numerous species including kittiwakes, Common Guillemots, Black Guillemots and the oh so charismatic Atlantic Puffin. Visually, they are stunning: waterfalls thunder into the sea, cliff tops cut jagged lines into horizon and the whole landscape seems straight out of Jurassic Park. Dressed in a cloak of mist and emerald green moss, to say that the feeling is otherworldly is an understatement. To gage the true beauty of the region, one must take to the sea. The experience of sailing under the cacophonic cliffs, juxtaposed by the silence of calm caves is simply unforgettable.

Seyðisfjörður, a beautiful 19th-century Norwegian village on the east coast of Iceland, is regarded by many as one of Iceland's most picturesque towns, not only due to its impressive environment, but also because nowhere in Iceland has a community of old wooden buildings been preserved so well as here. Poet Matthías Johannessen called Seyðisfjörður a 'pearl enclosed in a shell'. The community owes its origins to foreign merchants, mainly Danes, who started trading in the fjord in the mid-19th century. But the crucial factor in the evolution of the village was the establishment of the Icelandic herring fishery by Norwegians in 1870-1900. The Norwegians built up a number of herring-fishing facilities, and in a matter of years the little community grew into a boom town. Today, about 800 people live in Seyðisfjörður. The local economy has long been based on the fisheries, while light industry also flourishes. Tourism is playing a growing role, as the picturesque town in its spectacular surroundings attracts more and more visitors. The car/passenger ferry Norrøna, which plies between continental Europe and Iceland every summer, docks at Seyðisfjörður every Thursday. Seyðisfjörður has been a cosmopolitan community from its foundation, and the ferry service has contributed to ensuring that it remains so.

A world of tumbling waterfalls and colourful creativity, Seydisfjordur is Iceland at its most epic and eccentric. A spectacular fjord lends the town its name, and the structures are dwarfed by this majestic setting, as they huddle around its glassy waters. Sail around the fjord, head out on a kayak amid the scenery, or venture to meet Puffins and other nesting birds settled on sharp cliffs. Encounter sea lions, or try some fishing as you immerse yourself in this highlight of the wild and wonderful Eastfjords. Herring fishing sustained this settlement founded by Norwegians in 1848, leading to a town of colourful wooden buildings, which gleam white against the moody scenery's palette, providing a spirit-lifting splash of colour during the harsh winter months. A rainbow pathway leads to a pretty, pastel-blue church and there's more local art and culture to unravel at Skaftfell, which displays bright and bold contemporary art. Its bistro also serves up a perfect caffeine hit and refreshments. Waiting on the open jaws of the Seydisfjordur, this is a gloriously picturesque town, and the steep fjord banks reflect beautifully on the smooth waters below. The snow-capped Bjólfur mountain stands above the town and invites you to crunch along hiking trails amid untouched nature - rewarding with mesmerising views across the fjord and town below. These hills can literally sing thanks to a unique sculpture - which resonates with a traditional five-tone harmony. The remote and gorgeous Skalanes Nature reserve is a major draw, with 47 bird species resting on its dramatic bird cliff, along with countless plant varieties.

The town of Húsavík sits below Húsavíkurfjall mountain on the eastern shore of Skjálfandi bay. Just above the town is lake Botnsvatn, a popular place for outings. The lake is just the right size for a nice hike around it. The lakes surroundings are rich in vegetation and bird life and trout is said to be abundant, though small. Húsavík harbour lies below the bank right in the heart of town. The harbour once boasted a large fishing fleet, bustling with the activity of fishermen. It still serves as a fishing harbour but today's activity revolves more around the successful whale watching businesses. The first organised whale watching excursions in Iceland started from here in 1995. Since then, whale watching has become a major attraction and Húsavík continues to be the leading destination for whale watching. In addition to the tours, a fascinating whale museum is located right by the harbour. Húsavík is considered to be the oldest settlement in Iceland. The Swedish explorer, Gardar Svavarsson, spent one winter there in 870 AD during which time he built himself a house from which the settlement derives its name.

There's simply nowhere better than Husavilk - the European capital of whale watching - for getting up close and personal with the majestic giants of the ocean. Feel the awe as whales breach the waves around you before gulping in air and plunging away with almighty tale flicks. Pretty Husavik is framed by the majestic Húsavíkurfjall mountain which swells up behind creating a stunning backdrop for the town's tiny wooden warehouses cherry red houses and undulating fishing ships. Sail among gentle giants in Shaky Bay spotting humpbacks minke whales and the world's biggest – blue whales. You may also see teams of smaller white-beaked dolphins skipping across the waves displaying the full range of acrobatic skills. The town's whale museum is an interesting journey through Iceland's relationship with the sea giants while its restaurants serve up local specialities – taste juicy reindeer burger and plokkfiskur a buttery mash of local fish. Hikes and horseback rides into the surrounding countryside can take you up around Lake Botnsvatn to views down from the slopes of the Húsavíkurfjall - where purple spired lupin flowers spill down amongst the emerald slopes. From the summit look out over views of the bay reaching out to the crumpled snowy peaks beyond. Or feel the full force of this land of natural power at Dettifloss Waterfall one of Europe's most powerful thrashing flumes.

Vigur Island is a little more than a mile (1.6 km) in length and about 450 yards (412 m) wide. This green oasis punctuates the waters of the Ísafjarðardjúp fjord east of the town of Isafjordur. The island is home to a single farming family and has some meticulously preserved historical landmarks including Iceland’s only windmill, built in 1840 and used until 1917 for grinding imported wheat from Denmark; and a 200-year-old rowing boat, which is still in use to ferry sheep to the mainland. Summer is the best time to see large numbers of Atlantic Puffins, Arctic Terns and Black Guillemots. One of the export articles from this small island was eider down and one can see where the eider ducks nest and how the down is collected and cleaned.

Vigur Island is the second largest island in the Isafjardardjup Fjord, measuring 2 kilometers in length by 400 meters in width. It is home to a single sheep farming family, which ferries the sheep in summer across to the mainland, so that the Eider Ducks nesting on the island will not be disturbed. One of the export articles from this small island was eider down and one can still see where the Eider Ducks nest and how the down is collected and cleaned. The small settlement of a few houses is on the southern side, next to a small rocky beach, a concrete wall and floating pier. On approach grey seals can often be seen on the otherwise seaweed-covered boulders. Apart from the grey of the basalt and green of the grass, lichens add a splash of color. A path has been prepared and the grass cut, so that visitors can leisurely walk across the island to take in the beautiful scenery and to observe the large colony of Arctic Terns, Black Guillemots and Atlantic Puffins usually only seen during the summer months. A meticulously preserved historical landmark, a small windmill dating back to the 1840s was still in use in 1917 to grind wheat imported from Denmark. Viktoria House, one of the preserved wooden farm houses dating back to 1862, is used as a café where home-baked cakes and cookies are offered to guests.

Iceland is well-known for its spectacular waterfalls. The iconic Dynjandi waterfall, located in the Westfjords region, is regarded as one of Iceland’s most impressive and majestic waterfalls. At the top, the cascading water is roughly 100 feet wide and tumbles down about 330 feet into the fjord. Its name Dynjandi means, “the thundering one” and its vast size, enormous sound, and sheer force is overwhelming. It has also been nicknamed, ‘The Bridal Veil’ because of the way the water sprays and spreads over the rocks.

Iceland is well-known for its spectacular waterfalls. The iconic Dynjandi waterfall, located in the Westfjords region, is regarded as one of Iceland’s most impressive and majestic waterfalls. At the top, the cascading water is roughly 100 feet wide and tumbles down about 330 feet into the fjord. Its name Dynjandi means, “the thundering one” and its vast size, enormous sound, and sheer force is overwhelming. It has also been nicknamed, ‘The Bridal Veil’ because of the way the water sprays and spreads over the rocks.

Sprawling Reykjavík, the nation's nerve center and government seat, is home to half the island's population. On a bay overlooked by proud Mt. Esja (pronounced eh-shyuh), with its ever-changing hues, Reykjavík presents a colorful sight, its concrete houses painted in light colors and topped by vibrant red, blue, and green roofs. In contrast to the almost treeless countryside, Reykjavík has many tall, native birches, rowans, and willows, as well as imported aspen, pines, and spruces.Reykjavík's name comes from the Icelandic words for smoke, reykur, and bay, vík. In AD 874, Norseman Ingólfur Arnarson saw Iceland rising out of the misty sea and came ashore at a bay eerily shrouded with plumes of steam from nearby hot springs. Today most of the houses in Reykjavík are heated by near-boiling water from the hot springs. Natural heating avoids air pollution; there's no smoke around. You may notice, however, that the hot water brings a slight sulfur smell to the bathroom.Prices are easily on a par with other major European cities. A practical option is to purchase a Reykjavík City Card at the Tourist Information Center or at the Reykjavík Youth Hostel. This card permits unlimited bus usage and admission to any of the city's seven pools, the Family Park and Zoo, and city museums. The cards are valid for one (ISK 3,300), two (ISK 4,400), or three days (ISK 4,900), and they pay for themselves after three or four uses a day. Even lacking the City Card, paying admission (ISK 500, or ISK 250 for seniors and people with disabilities) to one of the city art museums (Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir, or Ásmundarsafn) gets you free same-day admission to the other two.

The capital of Iceland’s land of ice, fire and natural wonder, Reykjavik is a city like no other - blossoming among some of the world’s most vibrant and violent scenery. Home to two-thirds of Iceland’s population, Reykjavik is the island’s only real city, and a welcoming and walkable place - full of bicycles gliding along boulevards or battling the wind when it rears up. Fresh licks of paint brighten the streets, and an artistic and creative atmosphere embraces studios and galleries - as well as the kitchens where an exciting culinary scene is burgeoning. Plot your adventures in the city's hip bars and cosy cafes, or waste no time in venturing out to Iceland’s outdoor adventures. Reykjavik’s buildings stand together - below the whip of winter’s winds - together with the magnificent Hallgrímskirkja church, with its bell tower rising resolutely over the city. Iceland’s largest church's design echoes the lava flows that have shaped this remote land and boasts a clean and elegant interior. The Harpa Concert Hall’s sheer glass facade helps it to assimilate into the landscape, mirroring back the city and harbour. Its LED lights shimmer in honour of Iceland’s greatest illuminated performance – the northern lights. Walk in the crusts between continents, feel the spray from bursts of geysers and witness the enduring power of Iceland’s massive waterfalls. Whether you want to sizzle away in the earth-heated geothermal pools, or hike to your heart’s content, you can do it all from Reykjavik - the colourful capital of this astonishing outdoor country.