Fusina to Civitavecchia

Dalmatia's capital for more than 1,000 years, Zadar is all too often passed over by travelers on their way to Split or Dubrovnik. What they miss out on is a city of more than 73,000 that is remarkably lovely and lively despite—and, in some measure, because of—its tumultuous history. The Old Town, separated from the rest of the city on a peninsula some 4 km (2½ miles) long and just 1,640 feet wide, is bustling and beautiful: the marble pedestrian streets are replete with Roman ruins, medieval churches, palaces, museums, archives, and libraries. Parts of the new town are comparatively dreary, a testament to what a world war followed by decades of communism, not to mention a civil war, can do to the architecture of a city that is 3,000 years old. A settlement had already existed on the site of the present-day city for some 2,000 years when Rome finally conquered Zadar in the 1st century BC; the foundations of the forum can be seen today. Before the Romans came the Liburnians had made it a key center for trade with the Greeks and Romans for 800 years. In the 3rd century BC the Romans began to seriously pester the Liburnians, but required two centuries to bring the area under their control. During the Byzantine era, Zadar became the capital of Dalmatia, and this period saw the construction of its most famous church, the 9th-century St. Donat's Basilica. It remained the region's foremost city through the ensuing centuries. The city then experienced successive onslaughts and occupations—both long and short—by the Osogoths, the Croatian-Hungarian kings, the Venetians, the Turks, the Habsburgs, the French, the Habsburgs again, and finally the Italians before becoming part of Yugoslavia and, in 1991, the independent republic of Croatia. Zadar was for centuries an Italian-speaking city, and Italian is still spoken widely, especially by older people. Indeed, it was ceded to Italy in 1921 under the Treaty of Rapallo (and reverted to its Italian name of Zara). Its occupation by the Germans from 1943 led to intense bombing by the Allies during World War II, which left most of the city in ruins. Zadar became part of Tito's Yugoslavia in 1947, prompting many Italian residents to leave. Zadar's most recent ravages occurred during a three-month siege by Serb forces and months more of bombardment during the Croatian-Serbian war between 1991 and 1995. But you'd be hard-pressed to find outward signs of this today in what is a city to behold. There are helpful interpretive signs in English all around the Old Town, so you certainly won't feel lost when trying to make sense of the wide variety of architectural sites you might otherwise pass by with only a cursory look.

Croatia’s Capital of Cool Zadar is a dazzling mesh of influences and creativity. Glorious turquoise-water beaches and heavenly waterfalls also lie within easy reach of this energetic city of festivals and outdoor fun. See the old town with its robust city walls boasting decorative stone gateways and marble streets. The church of St Donatus was built from stones pillaged from the Roman forum while Zadar Cathedral - Dalmatia's biggest - stands among the many architectural treats of this city which was once an impenetrable stronghold of Venice’s republic. Head for the ‘pillar of shame’ with its chains to humiliate the criminals of a bygone time - or succumb to the tempting treats of shopping in the market. The sparkling Adriatic’s waters calls you and Kolovare Beach is a mere ten-minute stroll from the old town. A day trip to Kornat National Park - which incorporates the Zadar Archipelago's immaculate scattering of beach-fringed islands - or to the divine waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park will introduce you to more of Croatia’s thrilling natural beauty. The sea truly does sing here in Zadar thanks to a unique waterfront artwork which encapsulates the city’s playful spirit. Designed to make music when the waves wash over it the ebb and flow of the Adriatic plays the Sea Organ instrument like a maestro. Not far away the Monument to the Sun is a 22-metre-wide disc which gathers the sun’s rays during the sunny days and releases the solar energy in the form of a magical light show after dark.

Siracusa, known to English speakers as Syracuse, is a wonder to behold. One of the great ancient capitals of Western civilization, the city was founded in 734 BC by Greek colonists from Corinth and soon grew to rival, and even surpass, Athens in splendor and power. It became the largest, wealthiest city-state in the West and a bulwark of Greek civilization. Although Siracusa lived under tyranny, rulers such as Dionysius filled their courts with Greeks of the highest cultural stature—among them the playwrights Aeschylus and Euripides, and the philosopher Plato. The Athenians, who didn't welcome Siracusa's rise, set out to conquer Sicily, but the natives outsmarted them in what was one of the greatest military campaigns in ancient history (413 BC). The city continued to prosper until it was conquered two centuries later by the Romans.Present-day Siracusa still has some of the finest examples of Baroque art and architecture; dramatic Greek and Roman ruins; and a Duomo that's the stuff of legend—a microcosm of the city's entire history in one building. The modern city also has a wonderful, lively, Baroque old town worthy of extensive exploration, as well as pleasant piazzas, outdoor cafés and bars, and a wide assortment of excellent seafood. There are essentially two areas to explore in Siracusa: the Parco Archeologico (Archaeological Zone), on the mainland; and the island of Ortygia, the ancient city first inhabited by the Greeks, which juts out into the Ionian Sea and is connected to the mainland by two small bridges. Ortygia is becoming increasingly popular with tourists, and is starting to lose its old-fashioned charm in favor of modern boutiques.Siracusa's old nucleus of Ortygia, a compact area, is a pleasure to amble around without getting unduly tired. In contrast, mainland Siracusa is a grid of wider avenues. At the northern end of Corso Gelone, above Viale Paolo Orsi, the orderly grid gives way to the ancient quarter of Neapolis, where the sprawling Parco Archeologico is accessible from Viale Teracati (an extension of Corso Gelone). East of Viale Teracati, about a 10-minute walk from the Parco Archeologico, the district of Tyche holds the archaeological museum and the church and catacombs of San Giovanni, both off Viale Teocrito (drive or take a taxi or city bus from Ortygia). Coming from the train station, it's a 15-minute trudge to Ortygia along Via Francesco Crispi and Corso Umberto. If you're not up for that, take one of the free electric buses leaving every 10 minutes from the bus station around the corner.

Honey-coloured Siracusa is a staggering UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an extraordinary Sicilian city of immense ancient history. The modern population is a fraction of what it was at the city’s heyday around 400 BC, when Athens’ might was successfully challenged and faced down, reinforcing the city’s incredible power and status. Siracusa’s historical nucleus waits to be discovered on the compact islet of Ortygia. The city was founded here, but grew over time, spreading across to the mainland. A small channel separates the two, which is now spanned by twin bridges. Wander the atmospheric streets of this time warp, to reach the shining elegance of Piazza Duomo. The Baroque cathedral rises like a giant sandcastle, and you can settle opposite to cradle a glass of wine and enjoy the view over the immaculate square - people watching before the glorious baroque façade. Dig deep into its history at the mainland's archaeological park. Here you can wander between the remains of a Greek theatre, constructed in the 5th century BC, and now used as a grandiose, atmospheric venue for events and performances. You’ll also encounter a Roman Amphitheatre - where gladiators battled brutally, and the spectacular ear-shaped cave, which is famed for its extraordinary, secret-revealing acoustics. It was given its name - the Ear of Dionysius - by Caravaggio. Visit the legendary Fonte Arethusa, or lose yourself in the Ortygia Market – you’ll find everything here, from fresh fish, to spices and local bottles of wines. Look out for a flavour-filled jar of real Sicilian u strattu - an intense tomato paste that is the secret ingredient to many Sicilian recipes. The local ingredients are imbued with flavour by this volcanic land’s fertile soils and the firepower of Europe’s most active volcano Mount Etna, waits just to the north.

Livorno is a gritty city with a long and interesting history. In the early Middle Ages it alternately belonged to Pisa and Genoa. In 1421 Florence, seeking access to the sea, bought it. Cosimo I (1519–74) started construction of the harbor in 1571, putting Livorno on the map. After Ferdinando I de' Medici (1549–1609) proclaimed Livorno a free city, it became a haven for people suffering from religious persecution; Roman Catholics from England and Jews and Moors from Spain and Portugal, among others, settled here. The Quattro Mori (Four Moors), also known as the Monument to Ferdinando I, commemorates this. (The statue of Ferdinando I dates from 1595, the bronze Moors by Pietro Tacca from the 1620s.)In the following centuries, and particularly in the 18th, Livorno boomed as a port. In the 19th century the town drew a host of famous Britons passing through on their grand tours. Its prominence continued up to World War II, when it was heavily bombed. Much of the town's architecture, therefore, postdates the war, and it's somewhat difficult to imagine what it might have looked like before. Livorno has recovered from the war, however, as it's become a huge point of departure for container ships, as well as the only spot in Tuscany for cruise ships to dock for the day.Most of Livorno's artistic treasures date from the 17th century and aren't all that interesting unless you dote on obscure baroque artists. Livorno's most famous native artist, Amedeo Modigliani (1884–1920), was of much more recent vintage. Sadly, there's no notable work by him in his hometown.There may not be much in the way of art, but it's still worth strolling around the city. The Mercato Nuovo, which has been around since 1894, sells all sorts of fruits, vegetables, grains, meat, and fish. Outdoor markets nearby are also chock-full of local color. The presence of Camp Darby, an American military base just outside town, accounts for the availability of many American products.If you have time, Livorno is worth a stop for lunch or dinner at the very least.

There are few more elegant places to salute the sunset than Terrazza Mascagni, Livorno’s refined chessboard piazza. A historic port, and a beachy gateway to Tuscany, Livorno welcomes you ashore to explore this enchanted Italian region's sun-soaked beauty, rich flavours and world-renowned fine art. Stay in Livorno to explore 'Piccolo Venezia', or ‘Little Venice’ - a quarter of the town that's laced with canals, little marble bridges and plenty of tempting eateries. With its bustling market, fortresses and iconic waterfront, there’s plenty to keep you busy here, but most will be tempted to venture inland to explore more of Tuscany’s many charms and artistic wonders. Test your nose, as you breathe in the subtleties of Tuscany’s vineyard-draped scenery, and visit wineries showcasing the best of the renowned flavours of the Bolgheri wine-growing area. Or head out to Prato, where you’ll find tightly-woven textile history. Pisa’s showpiece tower is within reach, as is Florence’s city of immense and imaginative renaissance beauty. Admire the delicate carving of Michelangelo's masterpiece, the David statue, and note the provocative stance as he casts a dismissive glance towards Rome. Stand before the city’s majestic black and white cathedral - the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore - with its colossal brick dome. The view down over Florence's river and grand dome from Piazzale Michelangelo, meanwhile, is one of Italy's finest. However you choose to spend your time in Tuscany, you’ll discover an artistic region, filled with beauty designed to appeal to every sense.

Villefranche-Sur-Mer is located on the Côte d’Azur in Provence – known for its fields of lavender and warm weather – and is highly appreciated for its 14th Century architecture.

The setting for Michael Caine and Steve Martin’s hit movie ‘Dirty, Rotten, Scoundrels’, this tiny fishing port is one of the jewels of the Mediterranean. A beautiful, long (albeit narrow), sandy beach gives way to a picturesque port, flanked by a pedestrian village. Above which soar the Maritime Alps, which in turn stretch into sapphire blue skies. If that sounds ideal it’s because it is. Villefranche is not only emblematic of the iconic Cote d’Azur, but of France itself. To say Villefranche is pretty is something of an understatement. You start by strolling the port with its busy waterfront bars and restaurants before taking a left into the labyrinthine village itself. Here, you’ll find the usual jumble of souvenir shops, local art galleries and more cafés serving industrial strength expressos lining the shady streets. A train station is well located offering day trippers a chance to enjoy the other nearby hot spots, such as Monaco and even Italy to the east, and Nice and Cannes to the west. Art lovers will undoubtedly want to visit the glorious Chapelle de Saint Pierre des Pecheurs, Jean Cocteau’s inspiring church. What it lacks in size – its tiny – it more than makes up for in art, with practically every surface painted with a Cocteau masterpiece. Nearby Menton (just six stops on the train) has a wonderful museum dedicated to the artist that is a must see. You might want to stroll up to the Citadelle, a 16th century ex-military outpost that today offers exceptional views of the bay.

Genoa is a port city in the Northwest of Italy. Home to the Genoa Aquarium, famous for having the largest exposition of biodiversity in Europe, the city is also a great place to visit for anyone interested in architecture.

Most famous for being the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, Genoa is one of Italy’s true unsung heroes. Stretched out along the Mediterranean coast just over 100 miles from France, the city is the capital of Liguria, or the Italian Riviera, and has the history to prove it. Once the main trading centre for Italy, Genoa has a fine legacy of wealth behind it. The area once had complete control over the Tyrrhenian Sea, and its vast reach stretched as far as Nice to the west, Sardinia in the south and into the Piedmont mountains in the north. Exports were many, but perhaps the most lucrative of these was the rough denim cloth that sailors would wear, today more popularly known under the moniker blue jean. This affluence has left its mark on the city, think ornate gates, large, leafy palazzos, lavishly decorate churches and a Centro Storico – or Old Town – that speaks volumes. Grab your best hiking boots and wander the narrow alleys and steep hills and imbibe in the inherent Italianism of the city. No could talk about Genoa’s history without mentioning its food. Home of both Pesto and Focaccia, Genoa is considered by many to be one of the cornerstones of Italian gastronomy. The city’s cuisine is very much a product of its terrain: The Mediterranean yields freshly caught fish and seafood found on almost every menu, while the mountains supply the meat, cheese and above all herbs that flavour the dishes. It may not be fancy, but if you like good, simple Italian food, you have come to the right place.

Italy's vibrant capital lives in the present, but no other city on earth evokes its past so powerfully. For over 2,500 years, emperors, popes, artists, and common citizens have left their mark here. Archaeological remains from ancient Rome, art-stuffed churches, and the treasures of Vatican City vie for your attention, but Rome is also a wonderful place to practice the Italian-perfected il dolce far niente, the sweet art of idleness. Your most memorable experiences may include sitting at a caffè in the Campo de' Fiori or strolling in a beguiling piazza.

All roads lead to Rome, and with good reason - this city is one of the world’s most thrilling, offering unmatched history along every street. An evocative, inspiring and utterly artistic capital of unrivalled cultural impact, Rome is a city of back-to-back landmarks, which will take you on an exhilarating journey through the ages. This may be one of the world’s oldest cities, but it’s well and truly lived in. The ruins are punctuated with murmuring cafes, and the outdoor seating of restaurants sprawls out across piazzas, enticing you to sample tangles of creamy pasta and crispy pizzas. Rome’s incredible Roman Forum is littered with the ruins of its ancient administrations, which have stood firm for 2,000 years, since the times when the area was the centre of the Western world. Few sites are more simultaneously beautiful and haunting than that of the storied Colosseum, which looms deep into Rome’s rich blue sky. Take a tour to learn details of the grisly goings-on within. The best way to experience Rome is to wander its streets, gelato in hand. There is a lot to see here - whether it’s the domed spectacle of the Pantheon, or the elaborate flowing waters and artistry of the Trevi Fountain. Vatican City is an astonishing, colossal display of Catholic grandeur, while the Spanish Steps – crowned by the Trinità dei Monti church – offer a beautiful spot to gather and soak up the lively atmosphere of this humming city. With so much on the to-do list, you’ll relish the breaks you take, enjoying simple pleasures like a strong espresso, or fresh pasta with tomato sauce and ripped basil.