Fusina to Nice

Dalmatia's capital for more than 1,000 years, Zadar is all too often passed over by travelers on their way to Split or Dubrovnik. What they miss out on is a city of more than 73,000 that is remarkably lovely and lively despite—and, in some measure, because of—its tumultuous history. The Old Town, separated from the rest of the city on a peninsula some 4 km (2½ miles) long and just 1,640 feet wide, is bustling and beautiful: the marble pedestrian streets are replete with Roman ruins, medieval churches, palaces, museums, archives, and libraries. Parts of the new town are comparatively dreary, a testament to what a world war followed by decades of communism, not to mention a civil war, can do to the architecture of a city that is 3,000 years old. A settlement had already existed on the site of the present-day city for some 2,000 years when Rome finally conquered Zadar in the 1st century BC; the foundations of the forum can be seen today. Before the Romans came the Liburnians had made it a key center for trade with the Greeks and Romans for 800 years. In the 3rd century BC the Romans began to seriously pester the Liburnians, but required two centuries to bring the area under their control. During the Byzantine era, Zadar became the capital of Dalmatia, and this period saw the construction of its most famous church, the 9th-century St. Donat's Basilica. It remained the region's foremost city through the ensuing centuries. The city then experienced successive onslaughts and occupations—both long and short—by the Osogoths, the Croatian-Hungarian kings, the Venetians, the Turks, the Habsburgs, the French, the Habsburgs again, and finally the Italians before becoming part of Yugoslavia and, in 1991, the independent republic of Croatia. Zadar was for centuries an Italian-speaking city, and Italian is still spoken widely, especially by older people. Indeed, it was ceded to Italy in 1921 under the Treaty of Rapallo (and reverted to its Italian name of Zara). Its occupation by the Germans from 1943 led to intense bombing by the Allies during World War II, which left most of the city in ruins. Zadar became part of Tito's Yugoslavia in 1947, prompting many Italian residents to leave. Zadar's most recent ravages occurred during a three-month siege by Serb forces and months more of bombardment during the Croatian-Serbian war between 1991 and 1995. But you'd be hard-pressed to find outward signs of this today in what is a city to behold. There are helpful interpretive signs in English all around the Old Town, so you certainly won't feel lost when trying to make sense of the wide variety of architectural sites you might otherwise pass by with only a cursory look.

Croatia’s Capital of Cool Zadar is a dazzling mesh of influences and creativity. Glorious turquoise-water beaches and heavenly waterfalls also lie within easy reach of this energetic city of festivals and outdoor fun. See the old town with its robust city walls boasting decorative stone gateways and marble streets. The church of St Donatus was built from stones pillaged from the Roman forum while Zadar Cathedral - Dalmatia's biggest - stands among the many architectural treats of this city which was once an impenetrable stronghold of Venice’s republic. Head for the ‘pillar of shame’ with its chains to humiliate the criminals of a bygone time - or succumb to the tempting treats of shopping in the market. The sparkling Adriatic’s waters calls you and Kolovare Beach is a mere ten-minute stroll from the old town. A day trip to Kornat National Park - which incorporates the Zadar Archipelago's immaculate scattering of beach-fringed islands - or to the divine waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park will introduce you to more of Croatia’s thrilling natural beauty. The sea truly does sing here in Zadar thanks to a unique waterfront artwork which encapsulates the city’s playful spirit. Designed to make music when the waves wash over it the ebb and flow of the Adriatic plays the Sea Organ instrument like a maestro. Not far away the Monument to the Sun is a 22-metre-wide disc which gathers the sun’s rays during the sunny days and releases the solar energy in the form of a magical light show after dark.

Šibenik's main monument, its Gothic-Renaissance cathedral, built of pale-gray Dalmatian stone and designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, stands on a raised piazza close to the seafront promenade. From here a network of narrow, cobbled streets leads through the medieval quarter of tightly packed, terra-cotta–roof houses, and up to the ruins of a 16th-century hilltop fortress. The city has never been a real tourist destination. Before the Croatian war for independence, it was a relatively prosperous industrial center, but when the factories closed, Šibenik sank into an economic depression. However, the cathedral more than warrants a look, and it makes a decent base for visiting the waterfalls of Krka National Park.

Set on the dazzling Adriatic where the Krka River opens out into the blue island-peppered waters Šibenik is a stone-clad city that oozes Dalmatian medieval charm. Gorgeous Krka National Park gushes with famously picturesque waterfalls close by while the World Heritage Sites of Croatia’s oldest native town have endless stories to tell. Rising from the shadow of popular neighbours Split and Zadar Šibenik is successfully establishing itself as an unmissable Dalmatian city thanks to its timeless grace and 30 hidden churches and monasteries - which ring their bells above a wash of terracotta roofs. Dominating the tight streets of the charming old town - where ice cream vendors spoon out fruity flavours and footsteps rattle along stone streets - is the magnificent Cathedral St. James UNESCO World Heritage site. Taking more than a century to construct it is built from stone in a Gothic-Renaissance style and adorned with 71 sculptured heads - each displaying its own personality. St. Michael’s Fortress stands on a hill above the city providing the perfect viewpoint to see Šibenik rolling towards the stunning archipelago which punctuates the turquoise Adriatic. Part of the fortress is now used as an open-air stage forming an ethereal venue for performances. St. Nicholas Fortress is another UNESCO protected site and was built where the monastery of St. Nicholas once stood. Further afield the beautiful old town of Trogir is close by along with the Roman ruins of Salona.

The Croatian island of Hvar bills itself as the "sunniest island in the Adriatic." Not only does it have the figures to back up this claim—an annual average of 2,724 hours of sunshine—but it also makes visitors a sporting proposition, offering them a money-back guarantee if there are seven consecutive days of snow (snow has been known to fall here; the last time being February 2012).

One of the most popular of the island escapes sprinkled across the turquoise Adriatic Hvar is a glorious idyll of hidden coves electric blue waters and quietly contented port towns. In recent years it’s gathered something of a reputation as a party island - mainly earned from Hvar Town’s nocturnal exuberances and the transient day-tripping yachts that drop by. Soak up the energy exuberance and fine dining or sidestep the hedonism to explore a richly refined rural and historic island – utterly spoiled with sunshine and hidden beaches which dazzle with colourful intensity. Bike rides along long sweeping coastal paths boat journeys from pretty harbours walks through fields of purple lavender. Relish the sunshine and explore deserted idyllic inlets before sharing strong espressos in quiet harbour towns surrounded by welcoming sun-wrinkled locals. There’s also rich Medieval history – the sleepy town of Stari Grad is said to be Croatia’s oldest dating back to 384 BC. Elsewhere Jelsa is a postcard perfect place – settle in for a bite to eat with nothing but the sound of harbour waters lapping and sandpaper scraping boats hulls for company. You can walk to look out over glorious views across to Brac sometimes watching on as thunderstorms rage and flash an eternity away over the mainland’s crumpled mountains. You’re also just a short ferry ride from the incredible Golden Horn - an evocative spike of brilliant sand which juts out evocatively into the cobalt-blue sea.

Backed by imposing mountains, tiny Kotor lies hidden from the open sea, tucked into the deepest channel of the Bokor Kotorska (Kotor Bay), which is Europe's most southerly fjord. To many, this town is more charming than its sister UNESCO World Heritage Site, Dubrovnik, retaining more authenticity, but with fewer tourists and spared the war damage and subsequent rebuilding which has given Dubrovnik something of a Disney feel.Kotor's medieval Stari Grad (Old Town) is enclosed within well-preserved defensive walls built between the 9th and 18th centuries and is presided over by a proud hilltop fortress. Within the walls, a labyrinth of winding cobbled streets leads through a series of splendid paved piazzas, rimmed by centuries-old stone buildings. The squares are now haunted by strains from buskers but although many now house trendy cafés and chic boutiques, directions are still given medieval-style by reference to the town’s landmark churches.In the Middle Ages, as Serbia's chief port, Kotor was an important economic and cultural center with its own highly regarded schools of stonemasonry and iconography. From 1391 to 1420 it was an independent city-republic and later, it spent periods under Venetian, Austrian, and French rule, though it was undoubtedly the Venetians who left the strongest impression on the city's architecture. Since the breakup of Yugoslavia, some 70% of the stone buildings in the romantic Old Town have been snapped up by foreigners, mostly Brits and Russians. Porto Montenegro, a new marina designed to accommodate some of the world’s largest super yachts, opened in nearby Tivat in 2011, and along the bay are other charming seaside villages, all with better views of the bay than the vista from Kotor itself where the waterside is congested with cruise ships and yachts. Try sleepy Muo or the settlement of Prčanj in one direction around the bay, or Perast and the Roman mosaics of Risan in the other direction.

Embedded into the slopes of the steep Lovćen mountain and overlooking the deep blue Adriatic the fortified town of Kotor boasts a spectacular imposing staging that few can match. Sq Squeezing in through the tight Bay of Kotor is a daunting and impressive approach in itself as you arrive via one of Europe’s most stunning waterways. A pearl of Montenegro and the Adriatic Kotor's warren-like streets drip with history and authenticity. Under Venetian influence for four centuries the city's UNESCO World Heritage Site old town invites you to wander amid atmospheric stone-clad streets overlooked by a sea of terracotta roofs and the double towers of the cathedral. Many favour Kotor for its compact layout smaller crowds and authenticity however - having been spared from shelling during Yugoslavia's breakup. The tightknit streets here are patrolled by a slinking population of feline residents who were adopted as the town’s mascots after being left behind by transient trader ships. Learn of the city's extensive heritage on the waves in the dedicated maritime museum that is contained within Grgurina Palace. Pick your way through tight alleys of workshops and studios walking below fresh laundry strung from windows before settling into shiny paved piazzas for an afternoon coffee or seafood meal. If you’re up for an aerobic challenge tackle the 1 350 steps up the steep walls to St John's fortress. The views over the gorgeous bay make the arduous slog worth it.

Located right in the heel of the Italian boot, Otranto’s scenic landscape often plays the protagonist in displaying the beauty of Puglia, Italy’s easternmost region. Facing the Adriatic sea, the seducing weather and pristine waters have made it a popular destination where on a clear day, wanderers can see the coast of Albania. Like much of Italy, the city boasts a rich and mixed history. Once a Greek and Roman port, it was later occupied by the Byzantines, the Normans and the Spanish before the Ottoman invaded in during their Jihad to conquer Europe. Remains of forts are still visible and are a living testimonial of the town’s rich history along with Otranto’s cathedral, which still encloses today the relics of martyrs who refused to convert to Islam.

With its stern, steep fortifications, Otranto is an imposing, elevated and alluring port call. Learn a little of the history here, and you'll soon realise that this is a town that's right to be wary, having been conquered by - and repelled - many hostile visitors over its turbulent past. Visit Otranto to enjoy the heel of Italy's generous weather, bright white beaches, and the tug-of-war history between east and west. The turquoise seawater offers an enticing welcome, but this is a town haunted by past events. The darkest chapter occurred in 1480, when 813 were slaughtered after refusing to convert when Ottoman invaders conquered the city - following a fierce 15 days of resistance. The bones and skulls of the Martyrs of Otranto now watch over the altar of the cathedral, where they are stacked up behind a wall of glass. They were canonised by Pope Francis In 2012, and are recognised as Otranto's patron saints. Less macabre, the cathedral’s wonderful rose window and mosaic floor are gloriously beautiful, dating back to the 12th century. Head to the beach to soak up some sun and views of the sparkling Adriatic in Italy's most easterly town, or wander the pretty, cafe-lined streets of the historic old town amid the stout round towers of the extraordinary ramparts. Enjoy the leisurely pace of life along these tight, history-steeped alleyways, and try some of Puglia's delicious food, like the deceptively simple pasta cacio e pepe – pasta with cheese and pepper, or fresh hauls of prawns. Hidden beaches, gaping caves, and scattered fortifications litter the surrounding coastline.

Naples, in the Campania region, is Italy's third largest city. Its claim to fame is the spectacular location along one of the world's most splendid bays, backed by the perfect cone of Mount Vesuvius. In addition to its beautiful setting, Naples' surprises with other outstanding attractions such as the Royal Palace, San Carlos Opera House, the impressive National Archaeological Museum and the Castel Nuovo, dating from the 13th-century. The city's central area is best explored on foot. Chaotic traffic conditions make driving around the city a very frustrating experience. Naples provides a convenient starting point for trips to such favored destinations as Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius. The Isle of Capri can be reached via a 45-minute hydrofoil service. The region of Campania was home to Greeks settlers some 300 years before Rome was founded. Pompeii, too, was a Greek town before being conquered by the Romans during the 5th century BC. It was under the Romans that Pompeii flourished and grew prosperous. When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, the population of 20,000 was wiped out, but dozens of buildings were preserved under layers of cinder more than 20 feet deep. The most important finds from Pompeii are displayed in Naples' National Archaeological Museum. A visit here will no doubt enhance a visit to ancient Pompeii.

Raw, unvarnished and refreshingly authentic, Naples is Italy’s third-largest city and a place like nowhere else. They say ‘see Naples and die,’ and you’ll soon discover the unique energy and exuberance of this sprawling city, which balances urban grit and timeless wonder like no other. Set on the breathtaking Bay of Naples, with the looming cone of Mount Vesuvius puncturing the blue sky close by, it can take a little time for Naples to work its way under your skin - but once you attune to its rhythms, you’ll be hopelessly under its spell. Naples’ densely packed, towering streets lend a claustrophobic, canyon-like feel to the UNESCO World Heritage Site city centre. Here, overflowing market stalls sell handcrafted goods along tight alleyways, and hidden courtyards serve up glasses of glowing Aperol Spritz. The smell of freshly-baked focaccias and drying washing hang over the thoroughly lived-in streets, while stunning baroque churches rise out of nowhere. Wherever you wander, this is a city sprinkled with immense cultural treasures and artistry - from palaces to fortresses and ruins from antiquity. Unpretentious food, made from simple, flavourful ingredients is a feature of Naples' revered cuisine, and the birthplace of pizza is the perfect city to taste fire-baked, shockingly under-priced, margherita. Wash it down with a bottle of wine perfected by the fertile slopes of Vesuvius. A sharp espresso is always welcome to punctuate your time exploring. Mount Vesuvius’s destructive impulses destroyed and conserved the ancient city of Pompeii in the blink of an eye, and the town is one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world. Naples' National Archaeological Museum displays many magnificent finds should you wish to stay in the city. The Amalfi coast’s immeasurable beauty also stretches out close by, while Capri’s glorious island glamorously luxuriates just offshore.

One of the most photographed villages along the coast, with a decidedly romantic and affluent aura, Portofino has long been a popular destination for the rich and famous. Once an ancient Roman colony and taken by the Republic of Genoa in 1229, it’s also been ruled by the French, English, Spanish, and Austrians, as well as by marauding bands of 16th-century pirates. Elite British tourists first flocked to the lush harbor in the mid-1800s. Some of Europe's wealthiest drop anchor in Portofino in summer, but they stay out of sight by day, appearing in the evening after buses and boats have carried off the day-trippers.There's not actually much to do in Portofino other than stroll around the wee harbor, see the castle, walk to Punta del Capo, browse at the pricey boutiques, and sip a coffee while people-watching. However, weaving through picture-perfect cliffside gardens and gazing at yachts framed by the sapphire Ligurian Sea and the cliffs of Santa Margherita can make for quite a relaxing afternoon. There are also several tame, photo-friendly hikes into the hills to nearby villages.Unless you're traveling on a deluxe budget, you may want to stay in Camogli or Santa Margherita Ligure rather than at one of Portofino's few very expensive hotels. Restaurants and cafés are good but also pricey (don't expect to have a beer here for much under €10).

Effervescent and exclusive, Portofino rests on a privileged peninsular. Lavish yachts mingle together, seeking out sought-after berths in the harbour, while gelato drips onto the stone-paved streets in this, the most alluring and glamorous town of the Italian Riviera. This section of the Ligurian Coast is a protected area, and home to some of the country’s most picturesque, and jaw-dropping scenery - which is best viewed from the deck of a sailing boat. Crisp white villas roll out across the verdant green hillsides, surrounded by laden vineyards and olive groves. Down in Portofino itself, the buzz of chatter and the clatter of cutlery, provide the soundtrack to busy terrace bars and restaurants, which serve up fine food and delicious sea views. Portofino’s achingly beautiful harbour arcs around the lapping waves, with a warmly-hued waterfront of peach and apricot colours - which also adorns postcards and promotional travel guides of Italy. For the authentic Portofino experience, sail out onto the tranquil waters of the Gulf of Tigullio, to mingle amongst the privileged at play, or settle back in the shade as you take aperitivo on the picturesque waterfront Piazzetta. Here you can sip the famous Ligurian wines, and stave off hunger with focaccia con il formaggio - or platters of fine cheese and hams. Deeper into Portofino, you’ll find artisans crafting their wares and weaving together lace, or you can ascend to viewpoints like the lemon shaded Church of San Giorgio, to look over the pretty jumble from up above. A wander out along the headland to the tapering tip of the peninsular, rewards with the views of Portofino’s iconic white lighthouse beaming out light and welcoming ships to this slice of Riviera heaven.

United with France only since 1860, Nice has its own history and atmosphere, which dates back 230,000 years. It was on Colline du Château (now château-less) and at the Plage des Ponchettes, in front of the Old Town, that the Greeks established a market-port in 350 BC and named it Nikaia, which would become Marseilles' chief coastal rival. The Romans established themselves a little later on the hills of Cimiez (Cemenelum), already previously occupied by Ligurians and Celts, and quickly overshadowed the waterfront port. After falling to the Saracen invasions, Nice regained power as an independent state, becoming an important port in the early Middle Ages.So cocksure did it become that in 1388, Nice, along with the hill towns behind, effectively seceded from the county of Provence, under Louis d'Anjou, and allied itself with Savoie. Thus began its liaison with the House of Savoy, and through it with Piedmont and Sardinia, it was the Comté de Nice (Nice County). This relationship lasted some 500 years, tinting the culture, architecture, and dialect in rich Italian hues.By the 19th century Nice was flourishing commercially, locked in rivalry with the neighboring shipping port of Genoa. Another source of income: the dawning of tourism, as first the English, then the Russian nobility, discovered its extraordinary climate and superb waterfront position. A parade of fine stone mansions and hotels closed into a nearly solid wall of masonry, separated from the smooth-round rocks of the beach by what was originally named Camin deis Anglés (the English Way), which of course is now the famous Promenade des Anglais. This magnificent crescent, which is seeking UNESCO recognition, is one of the noblest in France. Many of Nice's most delightful attractions—the Cours Saleya market, the Old Town streets, the Hotel Negresco, and the Palais Masséna—are on or close to this 10-km (6-mile) waterfront, making it the first stop for most visitors, while the redevelopment of Nice's port, around the other side of the Colline du Château, makes it easier for amblers who want to take in the Genoese architecture or peruse the antiques at the Puces de Nice, now part of the Promenade des 100 Antiquaires, along Quai Papacino. Nice also has the distinction of the "Family Plus" label, with free strollers, play areas, and restaurants with child-friendly activities.

Nice's sweeping bend of brilliant-blue seawater - which once tempted the aristocracies of Europe - continues to entice and entrance visitors to these sun-soaked shores. A refined city of airy ocean boulevards grandiose buildings and open spaces fountain-sprinkled parks and colourful floral displays add to the city's timeless appeal. Nice has lost none of its old-world lustre and there remains something of the divine in the Bay of Angels' endless sparkling waterfront. The vast open Promenade des Anglais remains Nice's magnificent crowning glory inviting the city out to jog wander and glide along the Mediterranean's most spectacular curve of seafront promenade. The crisp clear golden light also continues to make Nice a destination of creative pilgrimage and Matisse Picasso and Renoir are among the many artists to lavish in the city's eternal beauty. Drag yourself away from the waterfront to discover the old town punctuated with Baroque churches rising and the wafting scents of baking pastries and lavender bundles. Follow the floral odours to Nice's famous flower market which spills gorgeous colourful displays along Cours Saleya. There's a strong hint of Italy explained by the fact that Nice only aligned with France in 1860 - following 500 years under the House of Savoy. Walk in Nietzsche's footsteps and climb up to Colline du Château's charming green park and cascading waterfalls to relish the views down over the city and sparkling sea expanse.