Athens to Fusina

It's no wonder that all roads lead to the fascinating and maddening metropolis of Athens. Lift your eyes 200 feet above the city to the Parthenon, its honey-color marble columns rising from a massive limestone base, and you behold architectural perfection that has not been surpassed in 2,500 years. But, today, this shrine of classical form dominates a 21st-century boomtown. To experience Athens—Athína in Greek—fully is to understand the essence of Greece: ancient monuments surviving in a sea of cement, startling beauty amid the squalor, tradition juxtaposed with modernity. Locals depend on humor and flexibility to deal with the chaos; you should do the same. The rewards are immense. Although Athens covers a huge area, the major landmarks of the ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods are close to the modern city center. You can easily walk from the Acropolis to many other key sites, taking time to browse in shops and relax in cafés and tavernas along the way. From many quarters of the city you can glimpse "the glory that was Greece" in the form of the Acropolis looming above the horizon, but only by actually climbing that rocky precipice can you feel the impact of the ancient settlement. The Acropolis and Filopappou, two craggy hills sitting side by side; the ancient Agora (marketplace); and Kerameikos, the first cemetery, form the core of ancient and Roman Athens. Along the Unification of Archaeological Sites promenade, you can follow stone-paved, tree-lined walkways from site to site, undisturbed by traffic. Cars have also been banned or reduced in other streets in the historical center. In the National Archaeological Museum, vast numbers of artifacts illustrate the many millennia of Greek civilization; smaller museums such as the Goulandris Museum of Cycladic Art Museum and the Byzantine and Christian Museum illuminate the history of particular regions or periods. Athens may seem like one huge city, but it is really a conglomeration of neighborhoods with distinctive characters. The Eastern influences that prevailed during the 400-year rule of the Ottoman Empire are still evident in Monastiraki, the bazaar area near the foot of the Acropolis. On the northern slope of the Acropolis, stroll through Plaka (if possible by moonlight), an area of tranquil streets lined with renovated mansions, to get the flavor of the 19th-century's gracious lifestyle. The narrow lanes of Anafiotika, a section of Plaka, thread past tiny churches and small, color-washed houses with wooden upper stories, recalling a Cycladic island village. In this maze of winding streets, vestiges of the older city are everywhere: crumbling stairways lined with festive tavernas; dank cellars filled with wine vats; occasionally a court or diminutive garden, enclosed within high walls and filled with magnolia trees and the flaming trumpet-shaped flowers of hibiscus bushes. Formerly run-down old quarters, such as Thission, Gazi and Psirri, popular nightlife areas filled with bars and mezedopoleia (similar to tapas bars), are now in the process of gentrification, although they still retain much of their original charm, as does the colorful produce and meat market on Athinas. The area around Syntagma Square, the tourist hub, and Omonia Square, the commercial heart of the city about 1 km (½ mi) northwest, is distinctly European, having been designed by the court architects of King Otho, a Bavarian, in the 19th century. The chic shops and bistros of ritzy Kolonaki nestle at the foot of Mt. Lycabettus, Athens's highest hill (909 feet). Each of Athens's outlying suburbs has a distinctive character: in the north is wealthy, tree-lined Kifissia, once a summer resort for aristocratic Athenians, and in the south and southeast lie Glyfada, Voula, and Vouliagmeni, with their sandy beaches, seaside bars, and lively summer nightlife. Just beyond the city's southern fringes is Piraeus, a bustling port city of waterside fish tavernas and Saronic Gulf views.

A city of legend, civilisation and enduring culture, Athens is a majestic and magical urban sprawl. Extraordinary elegance and grace combine with grit and graft in Greece's capital, where highways encase ruins from antiquity, and gleaming museums and galleries stand beside concrete sprayed with edgy street art. These contrasts enhance and elevate the wonders of this 2,500-year-old city, however, which can count notable contributions to philosophy, drama and democracy, among its global legacy. Piraeus' giant port and naval base welcome you to the edge of the Athens' urban area. From there it's a simple jaunt to the centre. The majestic ancient citadel of the Acropolis dominates an elevated platform and is a constant presence as you explore the city. The wonderful remains of the columned temple of the Parthenon - which date back to the 5th century BC - stand here, representing the pinnacle of classical architecture. The nearby Acropolis Museum adds context to your visit and frames the broad views from its giant glass windows. Or rise up Mount Lycabettus, to be rewarded with perhaps Athens' best panorama of the Acropolis sitting high over the city on its grand stage. See the marble horseshoe of the Old Olympic Stadium, where the first modern Olympics were held in 1896, for more of the city's enduring legacy. Elsewhere, golden beaches and temples stretch out along the coastline, should you wish to explore a little further afield. Coffee is an art form to the Greeks, and it's an unwritten rule that coffee time must never be rushed. So prepare to settle down for a couple of hours and lose yourself in a good chat. Feeling hungry - try traditional souvlaki made with sauces handed from generation to generation.

Undoubtedly the most extraordinary island in the Aegean, crescent-shape Santorini remains a mandatory stop on the Cycladic tourist route—even if it's necessary to enjoy the sensational sunsets from Ia, the fascinating excavations, and the dazzling white towns with a million other travelers. Called Kállisti (the "Loveliest") when first settled, the island has now reverted to its subsequent name of Thira, after the 9th-century-BC Dorian colonizer Thiras. The place is better known, however, these days as Santorini, a name derived from its patroness, St. Irene of Thessaloniki, the Byzantine empress who restored icons to Orthodoxy and died in 802. You can fly conveniently to Santorini, but to enjoy a true Santorini rite of passage, opt instead for the boat trip here, which provides a spectacular introduction. After the boat sails between Sikinos and Ios, your deck-side perch approaches two close islands with a passage between them. The bigger one on the left is Santorini, and the smaller on the right is Thirassia. Passing between them, you see the village of Ia adorning Santorini's northernmost cliff like a white geometric beehive. You are in the caldera (volcanic crater), one of the world's truly breathtaking sights: a demilune of cliffs rising 1,100 feet, with the white clusters of the towns of Fira and Ia perched along the top. The bay, once the high center of the island, is 1,300 feet in some places, so deep that when boats dock in Santorini's shabby little port of Athinios, they do not drop anchor. The encircling cliffs are the ancient rim of a still-active volcano, and you are sailing east across its flooded caldera. On your right are the Burnt isles, the White isle, and other volcanic remnants, all lined up as if some outsize display in a geology museum. Hephaestus's subterranean fires smolder still—the volcano erupted in 198 BC, about 735, and there was an earthquake in 1956. Indeed, Santorini and its four neighboring islets are the fragmentary remains of a larger landmass that exploded about 1600 BC: the volcano's core blew sky high, and the sea rushed into the abyss to create the great bay, which measures 10 km by 7 km (6 mi by 4½ mi) and is 1,292 feet deep. The other pieces of the rim, which broke off in later eruptions, are Thirassia, where a few hundred people live, and deserted little Aspronissi ("White isle"). In the center of the bay, black and uninhabited, two cones, the Burnt Isles of Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, appeared between 1573 and 1925. There has been too much speculation about the identification of Santorini with the mythical Atlantis, mentioned in Egyptian papyri and by Plato (who says it's in the Atlantic), but myths are hard to pin down. This is not true of old arguments about whether tidal waves from Santorini's cataclysmic explosion destroyed Minoan civilization on Crete, 113 km (70 mi) away. The latest carbon-dating evidence, which points to a few years before 1600 BC for the eruption, clearly indicates that the Minoans outlasted the eruption by a couple of hundred years, but most probably in a weakened state. In fact, the island still endures hardships: since antiquity, Santorini has depended on rain collected in cisterns for drinking and irrigating—the well water is often brackish—and the serious shortage is alleviated by the importation of water. However, the volcanic soil also yields riches: small, intense tomatoes with tough skins used for tomato paste (good restaurants here serve them); the famous Santorini fava beans, which have a light, fresh taste; barley; wheat; and white-skin eggplants.

Breathlessly romantic and incredibly scenic the azure domes and whitewash buildings that cascade down Santorini's slopes are prime honeymoon material - and relentlessly romantic. A true gem of the Cycladic island group Santorini is startlingly pretty and its white windmills and dazzling villages are incredibly easy on the eye. Envy-inducing and evocatively beautiful Santorini's sunsets are legendary and the island is a highlight of any voyage to the Greek islands. Look out over the endless expanse of blue waves filling the massive volcanic caldera of Santorini – and absorb one of the most spectacular views in the world. The sheer rock shoulders of the caldera create an immense natural amphitheatre - so enjoy the show as you sip a local volcanic-mineral enhanced white wine and fall in love all over again. Any meal is well rounded off with the famous wine Vinsanto. The east side of the island may lack the incredible panoramas but it's ideal if all you want to do is recline on volcanic-sand beaches - which range in hues from charcoal-black to flame-red. This beautiful island was forged by powerful volcanic activity and you can learn more about the huge eruption of 1 600 BCE - which wiped out the Minoan city at Akrotiri. The eruption sank the centre of the island forming the moon-shaped topography we see now. Visit the archaeological site that has revealed and preserved the village which was lost to time below the pumice and ash. Some whisper that this destroyed town may even be the fabled Atlantis.

Katakolon could not seem less of a cruise port if it tried. A tiny enclave clinging to the western Peloponnese coast, it's a sleepy place except when ships dock. But it's a popular cruise destination because of its proximity to Olympia. Ancient Olympia was one of the most important cities in classical Greece. The Sanctuary of Zeus was the city's raison d'être, and attracted pilgrims from around the eastern Mediterranean, and later the city played host to Olympic Games, the original athletic games that were the inspiration for today's modern sporting pan-planetary meet. At the foot of the tree-covered Kronion hill, in a valley near two rivers, Katakolon is today one of the most popular ancient sites in Greece. If you don't want to make the trip to Olympia, then Katakolon is an ideal place for a leisurely Greek lunch while you watch the fishermen mend their nets, but there's just not much else to do there.

Holding the torch as the spiritual home of the Olympic Games Olympia has an enduring legacy and its values echo around the world during humanity’s greatest sporting contest. Come ashore at Katakolon - a small port village on the Peloponnese peninsula facing the Ionian Sea and relax on beautiful Kourouta Beach. Or head inland through this legendary destination to the historic home of the Olympic Games. Located in the valley of the River Alfeios Olympia is a staggering archaeological site of immense ruins and enduring legacy. Visit the museum and Olympia Stadium - where the ancient games were held in honour of the Greek god Zeus. As many as 45 000 spectators fit into the mud seats to witness the ultimate contest of athleticism. See the stand where judges would sit and the white blocks where runners would line up to compete. The tradition continues stronger than ever and the Olympic flame of the modern games is ignited by the sun here in the ruins of the Temple of Hera. It is then taken to spread the Olympic values across the globe. The Temple of Zeus and the Statue of Zeus - one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World - also rose here in all of their glory. Hewn from limestone the temple contained the 13-metre tall statue of Zeus which was sculpted by Phidias - one of Ancient Greece's finest artists. Although the statue has been destroyed you can walk the temple's ruins and see the guesthouse where the majestic wonder was painstakingly crafted.

Corfu town today is a vivid tapestry of cultures—a sophisticated weave, where charm, history, and natural beauty blend. Located about midway along the island's east coast, this spectacularly lively capital is the cultural heart of Corfu and has a remarkable historic center that UNESCO designated as a World Heritage Site in 2007. All ships and planes dock or land near Corfu town, which occupies a small peninsula jutting into the Ionian Sea.Whether arriving by ferry from mainland Greece or Italy, from another island, or directly by plane, catch your breath by first relaxing with a coffee or a gelato in Corfu town's shaded Liston Arcade, then stroll the narrow lanes of its pedestrians-only quarter. For an overview of the immediate area, and a quick tour of Mon Repos palace, hop on the little tourist train that runs from May to September. Corfu town has a different feel at night, so book a table at one of its famed tavernas to savor the island's unique cuisine.The best way to get around Corfu town is on foot. The town is small enough so that you can easily walk to every sight. There are local buses, but they do not thread their way into the streets (many now car-free) of the historic center. If you are arriving by ferry or plane, it's best to take a taxi to your hotel. Expect to pay about €10 from the airport or ferry terminal to a hotel in Corfu town. If there are no taxis waiting, you can call for one.

The soft hues of Corfu’s UNESCO World Heritage List Old Town brings together Corfu’s mesh of European influences with its romantic stone floors and vine-clad cafes. Find somewhere to settle in for a morning coffee ritual like a true Corfiat and sip at the laid-back pace of the locals - allowing the thick bitter concoction to settle before indulging. The oddly out-of-place sound of leather on willow can be heard in Spianada Square – the largest city square in the Balkan region - where a manicured cricket pitch spreads out incongruously below the Mediterranean sun. Take the hike up to the 13th-century Paleokastritsa Monastery where you’ll be escorted by the resident goats and have to step over cats contentedly rolling around your feet on arrival. Inside explore gold-framed frescoes and watch as monks squeeze oil from the monastery’s trees’ bounty. Wander out among the groves to views of Corfu’s never-ending sea reaching out to the horison below you. Corfu’s sweeping sand beaches and hidden coves display the full spectrum of vivid Mediterranean seaside colours – which shift from turquoise greens to cobalt blues. The famous Canal d’Amour is a gorgeous inlet and island legend says couples who swim together in this narrow channel of water stay together forever. Enjoy an afternoon sit-down and drink of ginger tea or something a little stronger in the form of Corfu’s famous radiant orange kumquat liqueur.

Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of Dubrovnik. Lying 216 km (135 miles) southeast of Split and commanding a jaw-dropping coastal location, it is one of the world's most beautiful fortified cities. Its massive stone ramparts and fortress towers curve around a tiny harbor, enclosing graduated ridges of sun-bleached orange-tiled roofs, copper domes, and elegant bell towers. Your imagination will run wild picturing what it looked like seven centuries ago when the walls were built, without any suburbs or highways around it, just this magnificent stone city rising out of the sea.In the 7th century AD, residents of the Roman city Epidaurum (now Cavtat) fled the Avars and Slavs of the north and founded a new settlement on a small rocky island, which they named Laus, and later Ragusa. On the mainland hillside opposite the island, the Slav settlement called Dubrovnik grew up. In the 12th century the narrow channel separating the two settlements was filled in (now the main street through the Old Town, called Stradun), and Ragusa and Dubrovnik became one. The city was surrounded by defensive walls during the 13th century, and these were reinforced with towers and bastions in the late 15th century.From 1358 to 1808 the city thrived as a powerful and remarkably sophisticated independent republic, reaching its golden age during the 16th century. In 1667 many of its splendid Gothic and Renaissance buildings were destroyed by an earthquake. The defensive walls survived the disaster, and the city was rebuilt in baroque style.Dubrovnik lost its independence to Napoléon in 1808, and in 1815 passed to Austria-Hungary. During the 20th century, as part of Yugoslavia, the city became a popular tourist destination, and in 1979 it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the war for independence, it came under heavy siege. Thanks to careful restoration, few traces of damage remain; however, there are maps inside the Pile and Ploče Gates illustrating the points around the city where damage was done. It’s only when you experience Dubrovnik yourself that you can understand what a treasure the world nearly lost

Croatia’s crowning glory rears up vertically from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s daunting fortresses town is a truly imposing sight to behold. Encircled by chunky stone walls so thick and dramatic they could have been purpose-built as a film set this city’s unmatched old town is the setting for countless films and shows - from Star Wars to Robin Hood Game of Thrones and every production in-between seeking a truly authentic medieval flavour. Fully restored now the stone streets of the city take you through a beautiful mosaic of architectural splendour baroque churches and splashing fountains. Tapering alleys rocket up from the central boulevard of Stradun offering spectacular views down but you’ll need to walk the city walls to appreciate the fortress city’s full scale. Visit the neighbouring fort of Lovrijenac for another perspective or swing up to Srd fortress’s glorious panorama on a cable car. Dubrovnik’s streets are crammed with eateries and candlelit tables where couples splash wine into glasses and enjoy gnocchi mixed with creamy truffle sauces. Nearby beaches like Banje are also close by and hidden bays reward the intrepid who venture out beyond the old town. Take sunset drinks to sit back and watch as flotillas of sea kayaks roll by or sail on the pristine waters to explore island gems like Lokrum - where peacocks are the only permanent residents.

The Croatian island of Hvar bills itself as the "sunniest island in the Adriatic." Not only does it have the figures to back up this claim—an annual average of 2,724 hours of sunshine—but it also makes visitors a sporting proposition, offering them a money-back guarantee if there are seven consecutive days of snow (snow has been known to fall here; the last time being February 2012).

One of the most popular of the island escapes sprinkled across the turquoise Adriatic Hvar is a glorious idyll of hidden coves electric blue waters and quietly contented port towns. In recent years it’s gathered something of a reputation as a party island - mainly earned from Hvar Town’s nocturnal exuberances and the transient day-tripping yachts that drop by. Soak up the energy exuberance and fine dining or sidestep the hedonism to explore a richly refined rural and historic island – utterly spoiled with sunshine and hidden beaches which dazzle with colourful intensity. Bike rides along long sweeping coastal paths boat journeys from pretty harbours walks through fields of purple lavender. Relish the sunshine and explore deserted idyllic inlets before sharing strong espressos in quiet harbour towns surrounded by welcoming sun-wrinkled locals. There’s also rich Medieval history – the sleepy town of Stari Grad is said to be Croatia’s oldest dating back to 384 BC. Elsewhere Jelsa is a postcard perfect place – settle in for a bite to eat with nothing but the sound of harbour waters lapping and sandpaper scraping boats hulls for company. You can walk to look out over glorious views across to Brac sometimes watching on as thunderstorms rage and flash an eternity away over the mainland’s crumpled mountains. You’re also just a short ferry ride from the incredible Golden Horn - an evocative spike of brilliant sand which juts out evocatively into the cobalt-blue sea.

A small, quiet, well-heeled city, Ravenna has brick palaces, cobblestone streets, magnificent monuments, and spectacular Byzantine mosaics. The high point in its civic history occurred in the 5th century, when Pope Honorious moved his court here from Rome. Gothic kings Odoacer and Theodoric ruled the city until it was conquered by the Byzantines in AD 540. Ravenna later fell under the sway of Venice, and then, inevitably, the Papal States.Because Ravenna spent much of its past looking east, its greatest art treasures show that Byzantine influence. Churches and tombs with the most unassuming exteriors contain within them walls covered with sumptuous mosaics. These beautifully preserved Byzantine mosaics put great emphasis on nature, which you can see in the delicate rendering of sky, earth, and animals. Outside Ravenna, the town of Classe hides even more mosaic gems.

Wander the historic streets of Ravenna and you may not immediately realise the wealth of artistry contained here. Leave the sun’s glow and let your eyes adjust to the interior of the city’s churches however and you'll discover some of the world’s finest Byzantine mosaics waiting for you. Decorated with spectacular explosions of colour even the humblest church facade can conceal momentous and magnificent artistic displays in this city which harbours 1 500 years of extraordinary history. Ravenna is home to a plethora of UNESCO World Heritage Site designated buildings and no fewer than eight have received protection. Basilica di San Vitale of 525 AD stands as the town’s pièce de résistance - itself a precious mosaic of influence where Byzantine meets Baroque. Glorious light spills in vibrantly illuminating and highlighting the craftwork of its knaves and archways. The Mausoleum of Galla Placido is another noble achievement described by UNESCO as ‘the earliest and best-preserved of all mosaic monuments'. Look up at the glittering stars of the night sky from within and you may be inspired just as Cole Porter was when he penned Night and Day. Ravenna’s beauty has always been stimulating and Dante finished his masterpiece Paradiso here during exile from Florence. Sangiovese wines and prosciutto-filled piadina flatbreads will keep you fed and watered during your stay. Don't miss a taste of the local olive oil either which bursts with intense fruity flavours.

One of the true jewels of the Mediterranean, Rovinj is a jaw-droppingly beautiful town, which juts out into sparkling Mediterranean. Dominated by the pencil-like bell tower of the Venetian Saint Euphemia Cathedral, pine tree forests flow to the borders of the quaint Old Town - which evokes the romantic, tangled backstreets of the Venice. Rovinj - or Rovino in Italian - is a city of split personalities, with two official languages - having been owned by the Kingdom of Italy between 1919 and 1947.

A gorgeous artwork of a port you can revel in seafront promenade strolls waterside drinks and the tangled beauty of an immensely atmospheric old town. Nearby islands sparkle and beaches call out while working fishing boats add authentic everyday charm. With both Croatian and Italian languages spoken there's more than a hint of Venice in the crisscrossing streets and soaring bell towers of this breathlessly romantic place. An alluring highlight of the Istrian Peninsula walk the cobbled streets of Rovinj's old town between sun-parched houses that rear up directly against the sea's lapping water. Tiny streets and squares are lined with little souvenir shops bars gelato stalls and restaurants serving up delicious dishes laced with Istria's elusive white truffles. Take the climb up above via the elegant Church of St Eufemia's Venetian bell tower. The tower's ascent is perhaps best viewed from the glinting waters however as you look back to see the church rising above the town's pretty clutch of colourful buildings. Explore the olive groves and vineyards of the sunny peninsular on your way to villages where truffles are sniffed out by specially trained dogs or head out to rocky coves to swim in refreshing transparent seas. Pula is also close by - a city scattered with Roman ruins including the magnificently preserved in-tact amphitheatre - which continues to be a centre of entertainment hosting atmospheric festivals and concerts to this day.