Civitavecchia to Fusina

Italy's vibrant capital lives in the present, but no other city on earth evokes its past so powerfully. For over 2,500 years, emperors, popes, artists, and common citizens have left their mark here. Archaeological remains from ancient Rome, art-stuffed churches, and the treasures of Vatican City vie for your attention, but Rome is also a wonderful place to practice the Italian-perfected il dolce far niente, the sweet art of idleness. Your most memorable experiences may include sitting at a caffè in the Campo de' Fiori or strolling in a beguiling piazza.

All roads lead to Rome, and with good reason - this city is one of the world’s most thrilling, offering unmatched history along every street. An evocative, inspiring and utterly artistic capital of unrivalled cultural impact, Rome is a city of back-to-back landmarks, which will take you on an exhilarating journey through the ages. This may be one of the world’s oldest cities, but it’s well and truly lived in. The ruins are punctuated with murmuring cafes, and the outdoor seating of restaurants sprawls out across piazzas, enticing you to sample tangles of creamy pasta and crispy pizzas. Rome’s incredible Roman Forum is littered with the ruins of its ancient administrations, which have stood firm for 2,000 years, since the times when the area was the centre of the Western world. Few sites are more simultaneously beautiful and haunting than that of the storied Colosseum, which looms deep into Rome’s rich blue sky. Take a tour to learn details of the grisly goings-on within. The best way to experience Rome is to wander its streets, gelato in hand. There is a lot to see here - whether it’s the domed spectacle of the Pantheon, or the elaborate flowing waters and artistry of the Trevi Fountain. Vatican City is an astonishing, colossal display of Catholic grandeur, while the Spanish Steps – crowned by the Trinità dei Monti church – offer a beautiful spot to gather and soak up the lively atmosphere of this humming city. With so much on the to-do list, you’ll relish the breaks you take, enjoying simple pleasures like a strong espresso, or fresh pasta with tomato sauce and ripped basil.

Naples, in the Campania region, is Italy's third largest city. Its claim to fame is the spectacular location along one of the world's most splendid bays, backed by the perfect cone of Mount Vesuvius. In addition to its beautiful setting, Naples' surprises with other outstanding attractions such as the Royal Palace, San Carlos Opera House, the impressive National Archaeological Museum and the Castel Nuovo, dating from the 13th-century. The city's central area is best explored on foot. Chaotic traffic conditions make driving around the city a very frustrating experience. Naples provides a convenient starting point for trips to such favored destinations as Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius. The Isle of Capri can be reached via a 45-minute hydrofoil service. The region of Campania was home to Greeks settlers some 300 years before Rome was founded. Pompeii, too, was a Greek town before being conquered by the Romans during the 5th century BC. It was under the Romans that Pompeii flourished and grew prosperous. When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, the population of 20,000 was wiped out, but dozens of buildings were preserved under layers of cinder more than 20 feet deep. The most important finds from Pompeii are displayed in Naples' National Archaeological Museum. A visit here will no doubt enhance a visit to ancient Pompeii.

Raw, unvarnished and refreshingly authentic, Naples is Italy’s third-largest city and a place like nowhere else. They say ‘see Naples and die,’ and you’ll soon discover the unique energy and exuberance of this sprawling city, which balances urban grit and timeless wonder like no other. Set on the breathtaking Bay of Naples, with the looming cone of Mount Vesuvius puncturing the blue sky close by, it can take a little time for Naples to work its way under your skin - but once you attune to its rhythms, you’ll be hopelessly under its spell. Naples’ densely packed, towering streets lend a claustrophobic, canyon-like feel to the UNESCO World Heritage Site city centre. Here, overflowing market stalls sell handcrafted goods along tight alleyways, and hidden courtyards serve up glasses of glowing Aperol Spritz. The smell of freshly-baked focaccias and drying washing hang over the thoroughly lived-in streets, while stunning baroque churches rise out of nowhere. Wherever you wander, this is a city sprinkled with immense cultural treasures and artistry - from palaces to fortresses and ruins from antiquity. Unpretentious food, made from simple, flavourful ingredients is a feature of Naples' revered cuisine, and the birthplace of pizza is the perfect city to taste fire-baked, shockingly under-priced, margherita. Wash it down with a bottle of wine perfected by the fertile slopes of Vesuvius. A sharp espresso is always welcome to punctuate your time exploring. Mount Vesuvius’s destructive impulses destroyed and conserved the ancient city of Pompeii in the blink of an eye, and the town is one of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world. Naples' National Archaeological Museum displays many magnificent finds should you wish to stay in the city. The Amalfi coast’s immeasurable beauty also stretches out close by, while Capri’s glorious island glamorously luxuriates just offshore.

Once the intellectual capital of southern Europe, Palermo has always been at the crossroads of civilization. Favorably situated on a crescent-shaped bay at the foot of Monte Pellegrino, it has attracted almost every culture touching the Mediterranean world. To Palermo's credit, it has absorbed these diverse cultures into a unique personality that is at once Arab and Christian, Byzantine and Roman, Norman and Italian. The city's heritage encompasses all of Sicily's varied ages, but its distinctive aspect is its Arab-Norman identity, an improbable marriage that, mixed in with Byzantine and Jewish elements, created some resplendent works of art. No less noteworthy than the architecture is Palermo's chaotic vitality, on display at some of Italy's most vibrant outdoor markets, public squares, street bazaars, and food vendors, and above all in its grand climax of Italy's most spectacular passeggiata (the leisurely social stroll along the principal thoroughfare).

The capital of Sicily, Palermo is a fiery, authentic city and a cultural powerhouse on the periphery of Europe. Juicy lemons weigh down the branches of its tree-lined streets, while treats like cannoli tubes, filled with ricotta-blended cream, provide a sweet taste of the local cuisine. Oozing layered character, explore this incredible city at leisure, or head out to nearby villages, which offer preserved medieval charm. Stacked markets spill out onto Palermo’s souk-like streets, while grand piazzas host elaborate fountains and sculptures, below the watch of baroque church domes. Many cultures have clashed and combined on this island’s shores, - since the days of antiquity - giving the city the dubious honour of being the world’s most conquered city. A genuine patchwork of influences, Palermo’s triumph lies in somehow combining it all into one fascinating whole. Palermo is a delightfully dishevelled city. Wander bomb-damaged streets of neglect, which suddenly open out to the grandest of cathedrals and most majestic of stunning palaces. The 12th-century Palermo Cathedral is a glorious domed structure – rise to the top, to look across the city’s restaurant-filled alleyways from above. Next, encounter the Norman, Arabic, and Byzantine fusion of the Norman Palace and the incredible golden mosaics and sweeping archways of the adjacent Royal Chapel. Visit Europe’s third-largest opera house, or Mondello’s beach, which offers relaxation on a beautiful arc of white sand. Stop in at the selection of restaurants, which serve up fresh fish, and refreshing granita al limone.

The medieval cliff-hanging town of Taormina is overrun with tourists, yet its natural beauty is still hard to dispute. The view of the sea and Mt. Etna from its jagged cactus-covered cliffs is as close to perfection as a panorama can get—especially on clear days, when the snowcapped volcano's white puffs of smoke rise against the blue sky. Writers have extolled Taormina's beauty almost since it was founded in the 6th century BC by Greeks from nearby Naxos; Goethe and D. H. Lawrence were among its well-known enthusiasts. The town's boutique-lined main streets get old pretty quickly, but the many hiking paths that wind through the beautiful hills surrounding Taormina promise a timeless alternative. A trip up to stunning Castelmola (whether on foot or by car) should also be on your itinerary.

Hugging a long, sweeping bay, Giardini Naxos welcomes you ashore to some of Sicily’s most scenic and historic sites. Naxos was the first Greek settlement on Sicily, and it is surrounded by remarkable remains and swirling mythology. With a long arc of sun-soaked golden sand, you can kick back by the waves - and cool off with a dip into the sea's refreshing embrace. Up above the seaside revelry, the spectacular Taormina hillside town perches - containing rich Roman and Greek history. Visit to encounter one of Sicily’s best views, as you look down over the rejuvenating blue of the sea, and the looming backdrop of Mount Etna rising in the distance. The majestic, honey-coloured Greek theatre is a highlight, standing before the distant loom of the volcano. Head towards the puffs of cloud, and wisps of smoke, that gather around the peak of Sicily’s mighty volcano, which is among the most active in Europe. Arrive through vineyards, thriving in this fertile soil, before taking the 1,737-metre incline to the summit of the legendary mountain of fire, across fields of solidified lava flows. Known to the Greeks as the home of the God of Fire, and the one-eyed Cyclops, the mountain continues to amaze and awe with its restless power. Vineyards carpet the scenery - interrupted by occasional cactai and citrus groves – and produce some of Sicily’s most refined flavours. Enjoy a glass of wine on Giardini Naxos’ seafront, and toast your time on these rich Sicilian shores.

Located right in the heel of the Italian boot, Otranto’s scenic landscape often plays the protagonist in displaying the beauty of Puglia, Italy’s easternmost region. Facing the Adriatic sea, the seducing weather and pristine waters have made it a popular destination where on a clear day, wanderers can see the coast of Albania. Like much of Italy, the city boasts a rich and mixed history. Once a Greek and Roman port, it was later occupied by the Byzantines, the Normans and the Spanish before the Ottoman invaded in during their Jihad to conquer Europe. Remains of forts are still visible and are a living testimonial of the town’s rich history along with Otranto’s cathedral, which still encloses today the relics of martyrs who refused to convert to Islam.

With its stern, steep fortifications, Otranto is an imposing, elevated and alluring port call. Learn a little of the history here, and you'll soon realise that this is a town that's right to be wary, having been conquered by - and repelled - many hostile visitors over its turbulent past. Visit Otranto to enjoy the heel of Italy's generous weather, bright white beaches, and the tug-of-war history between east and west. The turquoise seawater offers an enticing welcome, but this is a town haunted by past events. The darkest chapter occurred in 1480, when 813 were slaughtered after refusing to convert when Ottoman invaders conquered the city - following a fierce 15 days of resistance. The bones and skulls of the Martyrs of Otranto now watch over the altar of the cathedral, where they are stacked up behind a wall of glass. They were canonised by Pope Francis In 2012, and are recognised as Otranto's patron saints. Less macabre, the cathedral’s wonderful rose window and mosaic floor are gloriously beautiful, dating back to the 12th century. Head to the beach to soak up some sun and views of the sparkling Adriatic in Italy's most easterly town, or wander the pretty, cafe-lined streets of the historic old town amid the stout round towers of the extraordinary ramparts. Enjoy the leisurely pace of life along these tight, history-steeped alleyways, and try some of Puglia's delicious food, like the deceptively simple pasta cacio e pepe – pasta with cheese and pepper, or fresh hauls of prawns. Hidden beaches, gaping caves, and scattered fortifications litter the surrounding coastline.

Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of Dubrovnik. Lying 216 km (135 miles) southeast of Split and commanding a jaw-dropping coastal location, it is one of the world's most beautiful fortified cities. Its massive stone ramparts and fortress towers curve around a tiny harbor, enclosing graduated ridges of sun-bleached orange-tiled roofs, copper domes, and elegant bell towers. Your imagination will run wild picturing what it looked like seven centuries ago when the walls were built, without any suburbs or highways around it, just this magnificent stone city rising out of the sea.In the 7th century AD, residents of the Roman city Epidaurum (now Cavtat) fled the Avars and Slavs of the north and founded a new settlement on a small rocky island, which they named Laus, and later Ragusa. On the mainland hillside opposite the island, the Slav settlement called Dubrovnik grew up. In the 12th century the narrow channel separating the two settlements was filled in (now the main street through the Old Town, called Stradun), and Ragusa and Dubrovnik became one. The city was surrounded by defensive walls during the 13th century, and these were reinforced with towers and bastions in the late 15th century.From 1358 to 1808 the city thrived as a powerful and remarkably sophisticated independent republic, reaching its golden age during the 16th century. In 1667 many of its splendid Gothic and Renaissance buildings were destroyed by an earthquake. The defensive walls survived the disaster, and the city was rebuilt in baroque style.Dubrovnik lost its independence to Napoléon in 1808, and in 1815 passed to Austria-Hungary. During the 20th century, as part of Yugoslavia, the city became a popular tourist destination, and in 1979 it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the war for independence, it came under heavy siege. Thanks to careful restoration, few traces of damage remain; however, there are maps inside the Pile and Ploče Gates illustrating the points around the city where damage was done. It’s only when you experience Dubrovnik yourself that you can understand what a treasure the world nearly lost

Croatia’s crowning glory rears up vertically from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s daunting fortresses town is a truly imposing sight to behold. Encircled by chunky stone walls so thick and dramatic they could have been purpose-built as a film set this city’s unmatched old town is the setting for countless films and shows - from Star Wars to Robin Hood Game of Thrones and every production in-between seeking a truly authentic medieval flavour. Fully restored now the stone streets of the city take you through a beautiful mosaic of architectural splendour baroque churches and splashing fountains. Tapering alleys rocket up from the central boulevard of Stradun offering spectacular views down but you’ll need to walk the city walls to appreciate the fortress city’s full scale. Visit the neighbouring fort of Lovrijenac for another perspective or swing up to Srd fortress’s glorious panorama on a cable car. Dubrovnik’s streets are crammed with eateries and candlelit tables where couples splash wine into glasses and enjoy gnocchi mixed with creamy truffle sauces. Nearby beaches like Banje are also close by and hidden bays reward the intrepid who venture out beyond the old town. Take sunset drinks to sit back and watch as flotillas of sea kayaks roll by or sail on the pristine waters to explore island gems like Lokrum - where peacocks are the only permanent residents.

Nothing can prepare you for your first sight of Dubrovnik. Lying 216 km (135 miles) southeast of Split and commanding a jaw-dropping coastal location, it is one of the world's most beautiful fortified cities. Its massive stone ramparts and fortress towers curve around a tiny harbor, enclosing graduated ridges of sun-bleached orange-tiled roofs, copper domes, and elegant bell towers. Your imagination will run wild picturing what it looked like seven centuries ago when the walls were built, without any suburbs or highways around it, just this magnificent stone city rising out of the sea.In the 7th century AD, residents of the Roman city Epidaurum (now Cavtat) fled the Avars and Slavs of the north and founded a new settlement on a small rocky island, which they named Laus, and later Ragusa. On the mainland hillside opposite the island, the Slav settlement called Dubrovnik grew up. In the 12th century the narrow channel separating the two settlements was filled in (now the main street through the Old Town, called Stradun), and Ragusa and Dubrovnik became one. The city was surrounded by defensive walls during the 13th century, and these were reinforced with towers and bastions in the late 15th century.From 1358 to 1808 the city thrived as a powerful and remarkably sophisticated independent republic, reaching its golden age during the 16th century. In 1667 many of its splendid Gothic and Renaissance buildings were destroyed by an earthquake. The defensive walls survived the disaster, and the city was rebuilt in baroque style.Dubrovnik lost its independence to Napoléon in 1808, and in 1815 passed to Austria-Hungary. During the 20th century, as part of Yugoslavia, the city became a popular tourist destination, and in 1979 it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. During the war for independence, it came under heavy siege. Thanks to careful restoration, few traces of damage remain; however, there are maps inside the Pile and Ploče Gates illustrating the points around the city where damage was done. It’s only when you experience Dubrovnik yourself that you can understand what a treasure the world nearly lost

Croatia’s crowning glory rears up vertically from the tranquil waters of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik’s daunting fortresses town is a truly imposing sight to behold. Encircled by chunky stone walls so thick and dramatic they could have been purpose-built as a film set this city’s unmatched old town is the setting for countless films and shows - from Star Wars to Robin Hood Game of Thrones and every production in-between seeking a truly authentic medieval flavour. Fully restored now the stone streets of the city take you through a beautiful mosaic of architectural splendour baroque churches and splashing fountains. Tapering alleys rocket up from the central boulevard of Stradun offering spectacular views down but you’ll need to walk the city walls to appreciate the fortress city’s full scale. Visit the neighbouring fort of Lovrijenac for another perspective or swing up to Srd fortress’s glorious panorama on a cable car. Dubrovnik’s streets are crammed with eateries and candlelit tables where couples splash wine into glasses and enjoy gnocchi mixed with creamy truffle sauces. Nearby beaches like Banje are also close by and hidden bays reward the intrepid who venture out beyond the old town. Take sunset drinks to sit back and watch as flotillas of sea kayaks roll by or sail on the pristine waters to explore island gems like Lokrum - where peacocks are the only permanent residents.

Split's ancient core is so spectacular and unusual that a visit is more than worth your time. The heart of the city lies within the walls of Roman emperor Diocletian's retirement palace, which was built in the 3rd century AD. Diocletian, born in the nearby Roman settlement of Salona in AD 245, achieved a brilliant career as a soldier and became emperor at the age of 40. In 295 he ordered this vast palace to be built in his native Dalmatia, and when it was completed he stepped down from the throne and retired to his beloved homeland. Upon his death, he was laid to rest in an octagonal mausoleum, around which Split's magnificent cathedral was built.In 615, when Salona was sacked by barbarian tribes, those fortunate enough to escape found refuge within the stout palace walls and divided up the vast imperial apartments into more modest living quarters. Thus, the palace developed into an urban center, and by the 11th century the settlement had expanded beyond the ancient walls.Under the rule of Venice (1420–1797), Split—as a gateway to the Balkan interior—became one of the Adriatic's main trading ports, and the city's splendid Renaissance palaces bear witness to the affluence of those times. When the Habsburgs took control during the 19th century, an overland connection to Central Europe was established by the construction of the Split–Zagreb–Vienna railway line.After World War II, the Tito years saw a period of rapid urban expansion: industrialization accelerated and the suburbs extended to accommodate high-rise apartment blocks. Today the historic center of Split is included on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites.

Bathing in the Dalmatian Coast’s generous sunshine and overlooking sparkling island-studded waters Split is a city of romantic beauty built around an extraordinary - still beating - historical heart. The setting may be spectacular but it’s the Diocletian’s Palace - a Roman remain of incredible scale and detail that is truly bewitching. With a natural backdrop of dramatic limestone mountains and Croatia’s trademark scenic wonders all around Split is a true heavyweight of the Adriatic. To enter Split’s Diocletian’s Palace is to step into a beautiful time warp. Head first to the Cathedral of Saint Domnius where a hollow bell tower rockets up puncturing the sky. The perfume of lavender hangs heavy wherever you walk in the old town where tucked shops offer artisan chocolates dried figs and freshly-ground coffees. The expansive seafront promenade is all palm trees buzzing bars and eateries and further out you’ll find the peace of Marion Hill - where you can climb to some of the best views in town. Or take the far less exerting wander to Sustipan cemetery’s breathtaking panorama of sea city and distant islands. Trips to island paradises like Hvar and Brac are tempting as are longer excursions to sites like Krka National Park’s Waterfalls - where wide terraces of frothing water thunder into cooling swimmable splash pools below. Nearby Trogir is another UNESCO World Heritage Site offering a cosier no less charming old town and historic port.

Dalmatia's capital for more than 1,000 years, Zadar is all too often passed over by travelers on their way to Split or Dubrovnik. What they miss out on is a city of more than 73,000 that is remarkably lovely and lively despite—and, in some measure, because of—its tumultuous history. The Old Town, separated from the rest of the city on a peninsula some 4 km (2½ miles) long and just 1,640 feet wide, is bustling and beautiful: the marble pedestrian streets are replete with Roman ruins, medieval churches, palaces, museums, archives, and libraries. Parts of the new town are comparatively dreary, a testament to what a world war followed by decades of communism, not to mention a civil war, can do to the architecture of a city that is 3,000 years old. A settlement had already existed on the site of the present-day city for some 2,000 years when Rome finally conquered Zadar in the 1st century BC; the foundations of the forum can be seen today. Before the Romans came the Liburnians had made it a key center for trade with the Greeks and Romans for 800 years. In the 3rd century BC the Romans began to seriously pester the Liburnians, but required two centuries to bring the area under their control. During the Byzantine era, Zadar became the capital of Dalmatia, and this period saw the construction of its most famous church, the 9th-century St. Donat's Basilica. It remained the region's foremost city through the ensuing centuries. The city then experienced successive onslaughts and occupations—both long and short—by the Osogoths, the Croatian-Hungarian kings, the Venetians, the Turks, the Habsburgs, the French, the Habsburgs again, and finally the Italians before becoming part of Yugoslavia and, in 1991, the independent republic of Croatia. Zadar was for centuries an Italian-speaking city, and Italian is still spoken widely, especially by older people. Indeed, it was ceded to Italy in 1921 under the Treaty of Rapallo (and reverted to its Italian name of Zara). Its occupation by the Germans from 1943 led to intense bombing by the Allies during World War II, which left most of the city in ruins. Zadar became part of Tito's Yugoslavia in 1947, prompting many Italian residents to leave. Zadar's most recent ravages occurred during a three-month siege by Serb forces and months more of bombardment during the Croatian-Serbian war between 1991 and 1995. But you'd be hard-pressed to find outward signs of this today in what is a city to behold. There are helpful interpretive signs in English all around the Old Town, so you certainly won't feel lost when trying to make sense of the wide variety of architectural sites you might otherwise pass by with only a cursory look.

Croatia’s Capital of Cool Zadar is a dazzling mesh of influences and creativity. Glorious turquoise-water beaches and heavenly waterfalls also lie within easy reach of this energetic city of festivals and outdoor fun. See the old town with its robust city walls boasting decorative stone gateways and marble streets. The church of St Donatus was built from stones pillaged from the Roman forum while Zadar Cathedral - Dalmatia's biggest - stands among the many architectural treats of this city which was once an impenetrable stronghold of Venice’s republic. Head for the ‘pillar of shame’ with its chains to humiliate the criminals of a bygone time - or succumb to the tempting treats of shopping in the market. The sparkling Adriatic’s waters calls you and Kolovare Beach is a mere ten-minute stroll from the old town. A day trip to Kornat National Park - which incorporates the Zadar Archipelago's immaculate scattering of beach-fringed islands - or to the divine waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park will introduce you to more of Croatia’s thrilling natural beauty. The sea truly does sing here in Zadar thanks to a unique waterfront artwork which encapsulates the city’s playful spirit. Designed to make music when the waves wash over it the ebb and flow of the Adriatic plays the Sea Organ instrument like a maestro. Not far away the Monument to the Sun is a 22-metre-wide disc which gathers the sun’s rays during the sunny days and releases the solar energy in the form of a magical light show after dark.