Valletta to Nice

Malta's capital, the minicity of Valletta, has ornate palaces and museums protected by massive fortifications of honey-color limestone. Houses along the narrow streets have overhanging wooden balconies for people-watching from indoors. Generations ago they gave housebound women a window on the world of the street. The main entrance to town is through the City Gate (where all bus routes end), which leads onto Triq Repubblika (Republic Street), the spine of the grid-pattern city and the main shopping street. Triq Mercante (Merchant Street) parallels Repubblika to the east and is also good for strolling. From these two streets, cross streets descend toward the water; some are stepped. Valletta's compactness makes it ideal to explore on foot. City Gate and the upper part of Valletta are experiencing vast redevelopment that includes a new Parliament Building and open-air performance venue. The complex, completed mid-2013, has numerous pedestrian detours in place along with building noise and dust. Before setting out along Republic Street, stop at the tourist information office on Merchant Street for maps and brochures.

Perched high on the imposing Sciberras Peninsula, Valletta immediately presents its massive, protective walls and vertical bastions to visitors arriving by sea. Rising to 47 metres in places, the fortifications protect lavish palaces, grand domes and illustrious gardens. Built by the Knights of St John on the narrow peninsular, Valletta is a compact, richly historical treasure trove of Baroque wonders. Ascend to reach the restful, flower-filled Upper Barrakka Gardens, where cannons fire and boom in salute at noon each day, sending echoing cracks of noise out across the waves below. Recognised as 2018’s European Capital of Culture, Valletta is a fascinating and dense haven of history and intrigue. A busy, bustling capital, the breathtaking St John’s Cathedral - commissioned in 1572 - is almost concealed among its narrow streets. The relatively modest exterior is counterpointed by a staggeringly opulent, gold-leaf bathed interior, containing a Caravaggio masterpiece - the shadowy vision of the Beheading of St John. Cinematic and magnificent, Valletta has served as a filming location for Game of Thrones - but real epic history abounds on this rocky isle too. From the prehistoric and megalithic sites of the Hypogeum of Paola and Tarxien, to the fascinating War Museum at Fort St Elmo. Mdina also waits nearby, and the former medieval capital is a striking contrast to the island’s main city. Cars are barred from its streets, and it offers endlessly atmospheric old-time wanders. With a strategic positioning in the Mediterranean, Malta is a jewel that many have wrestled for over the centuries. Independence from Britain was finally achieved in 1964, but the close allegiance remains evident, with English recognised as an official language, cars driving on the left, and red post boxes and telephone gleaming in Malta’s sunshine.

Trapani, the most important town on Sicily’s west coast, lies below the headland of Mount Erice and offers stunning views of the Egadi Islands on a clear day. Trapani’s Old District occupies a scimitarshaped promontory between the open sea on the north and the salt marshes to the south. The ancient industry of extracting salt from the marshes has recently been revived, and it is documented in the Museo delle Saline. In addition to the salt marshes,Trapani’s other interesting environs include the beautiful little hill town of Erice, the promontory of Capo San Vito stretching north beyond the splendid headland of Monte Cofano, the lovely island of Motya and the town of Marsala. Trips farther afield will take you to the magnificent site of Segesta or the Egadi Islands, reached by boat or hydrofoil from Trapani Port.

Surrounded by glowing turquoise waters and rugged coastline Trapani invites you to explore western Sicily's ruins intense flavours and sun-soaked leisure pursuits. Built on salt and tuna exports Trapani is experiencing a renaissance having been lovingly spruced up as a sailing capital and an international airport bringing in visitors from far and wide. The town looks out over the Egadi Islands gazing west to witness some of Siciliy's most evocative sunset displays. Start exploring Trapani from its historic core a dense network of alleys hosting a collection of small shops restaurants and wine bars. You’ll encounter the Cathedral of San Lorenzo – where colourful artworks are spread below sweeping arches and a beautiful domed roof. Sicily feels like an island on the cusp of continents and Trapani practically has one foot in Africa as you soak in its pretty whitewash houses and fusion of foods and arts. Discover the Ancient Greek influence by venturing to rich archaeological sites nearby like Selinus and Segesta where the treasures from the past have been unearthed and displayed. Pyramids of white salt rise up at the Riserva Naturale Saline di Trapani e Paceco. These salt marshes and windmills are a symbol of Trapani and although sea salt production is much less important today the small white hills remain a Trapani landmark. Look out for the pink flamingos wading in the salt pans below. For beach days the Egadi Islands can be easily reached from Trapani - Favignana is the largest and most popular.

The largest and most developed of the Aeolians, Lipari welcomes you with distinctive pastel-color houses. Fields of spiky agaves dot the northernmost tip of the island, Acquacalda, indented with pumice and obsidian quarries. In the west is San Calogero, where you can explore hot springs and mud baths. From the red-lava base of the island rises a plateau crowned with a 16th-century castle and a 17th-century cathedral.

Florally-painted buildings line cobbled plant-pot decorated streets - and glow attractively in the ever-present sunshine. The laid-back island atmosphere immediately washes over you as you breathe in your first taste of the salty sea air. With tastebud-jangling pizza palate-satisfying wines and sparkling blue waters to behold - Lipari Island is a little slice of sensory heaven. Head straight to the shore to soak up the rich blue hues of spots like Havana Beach. Hike the scenery and look out across the archipelago to the fiery cone of Stromboli - one of three active volcanoes in Italy - which looms from the blue waters. Visit a winery to admire the neat rows of vines and taste the subtle flavours the grapes acquire from these fertile soils. Sip the wines alongside fresh curls of ham and cheese. Explore the town’s charms - such as the archaeological museum which tells of a turbulent history in the clutches of major empires - before climbing the stone-stepped incline to the salmon pink Cathedral of San Bartolomeo. Beautiful frescoes spread across the roof and you can admire the Norman cloisters and silver statue of the island's patron saint Saint Bartholomew. This statue is said to perform the miracle of changing its weight when required - notably when the fascist regime attempted to sell it - only to discover it was mysteriously featherlight and worthless. Lipari Castle's steeply banked walls add a crowning glory to this island of volcanic wonder.

A tourist-friendly town of about 45,000 inhabitants with a distinctly Spanish flavor, Alghero is also known as "Barcelonetta" (little Barcelona). Rich wrought-iron scrollwork decorates balconies and screened windows; a Spanish motif appears in stone portals and bell towers. The town was built and inhabited in the 14th century by the Aragonese and Catalans, who constructed seaside ramparts and sturdy towers encompassing an inviting nucleus of narrow, winding streets with whitewashed palazzi. The native language spoken here is a version of Catalan, not Italian, although you probably have to attend one of the Masses conducted in Algherese (or listen in on stories swapped by older fishermen) to hear it. Besides its historic architectural gems such as the Alghero Cathedral and Palazzo d'Albis, the fortified city is well worth a visit to simply stroll and discover local culture on narrow cobblestone streets. The city also has a reputation to serve great food at reasonable prices.

Encircled by dramatic medieval walls, which rise abruptly from deep-blue waters, Alghero’s defences shelter one of Sardinia’s largest and most spectacular old towns. Uneven cobbled streets, rich history and a fiery Catalan flare provide a real depth of character, and the Coral Riviera’s pristine beaches, which stretch out nearby, help to make Alghero a real highlight of Sardinia. Alghero has changed hands numerous times over its tempestuous history, but it’s the Catalan influence that you’ll feel most acutely, as you explore. It was the Catalans who upgraded the defensive ramparts of the ‘Sardinian Barcelonetta’ into the spectacular, imposing fortress we see today, enclosing the old town’s evocative knot of narrow streets and rose-gold-coloured masonry. Wander the streets at your leisure, enjoying the cooling shade of the tight, cobblestone streets with lemon-gelato in hand, or enjoying fresh tuna steak at the bustling La Boqueria market. Alghero Cathedral is hidden amid the labyrinth of narrow streets, but it’s the distinctive Baroque-dome of Chiesa di San Michele that you’ll immediately notice peeking ostentatiously over the terracotta roofs of the old town, flaunting its rainbow-coloured patterning. Plush restaurants revel in Alghero’s historical collision of cultures and produce delicious fare like plump clams tangled in tagliatelle, and succulent porcetto pork – slowly roasted to perfection in smoky wood ovens. Wash it down with mirto, a crushed berry liqueur, or sample the fruits of local vineyards, with a platter of Sardinia’s renowned pecorino sheep’s cheese. The city dominates Sardinia’s Coral Riviera – so named because of the red coral found here that’s been used for jewellery since Roman times. Lie back and listen to the waves washing ashore at Spiaggia di Maria Pia beach, breathing in the smell of pine-needles on the breeze.

Elba is the Tuscan archipelago's largest island, but it resembles nearby verdant Corsica more than it does its rocky Italian sisters, thanks to a network of underground springs that keep it lush and green. It's this combination of semitropical vegetation and dramatic mountain scenery—unusual in the Mediterranean—that has made Elba so prized for so long, and the island's uniqueness continues to draw boatloads of visitors throughout the warm months. A car is very useful for getting around the island, but public buses stop at most towns several times a day; the tourist office has timetables.

Offshore in the Tyrrhenian Sea Elba is a mountainous mirage of glowing beaches turquoise waters and craggy coastline. The island capital’s sun-faded pink and yellow buildings stack up over the waterfront offering sweeping views back to the mainland. The harbour's tiny wooden fishing boats are now dwarfed by the gleaming yachts that visit and Elba invites you to join them dropping in to relish a secluded sun-soaked taste of the island's good life. Elba is the third biggest Italian island and the protected Tuscan archipelago’s largest with no fewer than 90 miles of gorgeous coastline rolling out for you to explore. Grown from the ruins of the Roman settlement of Fabricia steep fortifications and a scenic natural harbour all add to Portoferraio's appeals. Bonaparte hung around for just ten months - but the sea panorama from his former residence Villa dei Mulini - which is now a museum - keeps visitors coming back for more. An island of steep inclines which reward with spectacular vistas Elba’s villages cling to precipitous drops while beautiful beaches unravel along its shores and enchanting scenery of chestnut tree woods olive groves and vineyards coat its lands. Take the cable car up to Monte Capanne - which offers more of the island's trademark views without the need to break a sweat. Settle down to taste the island’s succulent seafood and tuck into juicy grilled sardines and plump octopus - rounded off with a glass of the famous local sweet wine.

One of the most photographed villages along the coast, with a decidedly romantic and affluent aura, Portofino has long been a popular destination for the rich and famous. Once an ancient Roman colony and taken by the Republic of Genoa in 1229, it’s also been ruled by the French, English, Spanish, and Austrians, as well as by marauding bands of 16th-century pirates. Elite British tourists first flocked to the lush harbor in the mid-1800s. Some of Europe's wealthiest drop anchor in Portofino in summer, but they stay out of sight by day, appearing in the evening after buses and boats have carried off the day-trippers.There's not actually much to do in Portofino other than stroll around the wee harbor, see the castle, walk to Punta del Capo, browse at the pricey boutiques, and sip a coffee while people-watching. However, weaving through picture-perfect cliffside gardens and gazing at yachts framed by the sapphire Ligurian Sea and the cliffs of Santa Margherita can make for quite a relaxing afternoon. There are also several tame, photo-friendly hikes into the hills to nearby villages.Unless you're traveling on a deluxe budget, you may want to stay in Camogli or Santa Margherita Ligure rather than at one of Portofino's few very expensive hotels. Restaurants and cafés are good but also pricey (don't expect to have a beer here for much under €10).

Effervescent and exclusive, Portofino rests on a privileged peninsular. Lavish yachts mingle together, seeking out sought-after berths in the harbour, while gelato drips onto the stone-paved streets in this, the most alluring and glamorous town of the Italian Riviera. This section of the Ligurian Coast is a protected area, and home to some of the country’s most picturesque, and jaw-dropping scenery - which is best viewed from the deck of a sailing boat. Crisp white villas roll out across the verdant green hillsides, surrounded by laden vineyards and olive groves. Down in Portofino itself, the buzz of chatter and the clatter of cutlery, provide the soundtrack to busy terrace bars and restaurants, which serve up fine food and delicious sea views. Portofino’s achingly beautiful harbour arcs around the lapping waves, with a warmly-hued waterfront of peach and apricot colours - which also adorns postcards and promotional travel guides of Italy. For the authentic Portofino experience, sail out onto the tranquil waters of the Gulf of Tigullio, to mingle amongst the privileged at play, or settle back in the shade as you take aperitivo on the picturesque waterfront Piazzetta. Here you can sip the famous Ligurian wines, and stave off hunger with focaccia con il formaggio - or platters of fine cheese and hams. Deeper into Portofino, you’ll find artisans crafting their wares and weaving together lace, or you can ascend to viewpoints like the lemon shaded Church of San Giorgio, to look over the pretty jumble from up above. A wander out along the headland to the tapering tip of the peninsular, rewards with the views of Portofino’s iconic white lighthouse beaming out light and welcoming ships to this slice of Riviera heaven.

United with France only since 1860, Nice has its own history and atmosphere, which dates back 230,000 years. It was on Colline du Château (now château-less) and at the Plage des Ponchettes, in front of the Old Town, that the Greeks established a market-port in 350 BC and named it Nikaia, which would become Marseilles' chief coastal rival. The Romans established themselves a little later on the hills of Cimiez (Cemenelum), already previously occupied by Ligurians and Celts, and quickly overshadowed the waterfront port. After falling to the Saracen invasions, Nice regained power as an independent state, becoming an important port in the early Middle Ages.So cocksure did it become that in 1388, Nice, along with the hill towns behind, effectively seceded from the county of Provence, under Louis d'Anjou, and allied itself with Savoie. Thus began its liaison with the House of Savoy, and through it with Piedmont and Sardinia, it was the Comté de Nice (Nice County). This relationship lasted some 500 years, tinting the culture, architecture, and dialect in rich Italian hues.By the 19th century Nice was flourishing commercially, locked in rivalry with the neighboring shipping port of Genoa. Another source of income: the dawning of tourism, as first the English, then the Russian nobility, discovered its extraordinary climate and superb waterfront position. A parade of fine stone mansions and hotels closed into a nearly solid wall of masonry, separated from the smooth-round rocks of the beach by what was originally named Camin deis Anglés (the English Way), which of course is now the famous Promenade des Anglais. This magnificent crescent, which is seeking UNESCO recognition, is one of the noblest in France. Many of Nice's most delightful attractions—the Cours Saleya market, the Old Town streets, the Hotel Negresco, and the Palais Masséna—are on or close to this 10-km (6-mile) waterfront, making it the first stop for most visitors, while the redevelopment of Nice's port, around the other side of the Colline du Château, makes it easier for amblers who want to take in the Genoese architecture or peruse the antiques at the Puces de Nice, now part of the Promenade des 100 Antiquaires, along Quai Papacino. Nice also has the distinction of the "Family Plus" label, with free strollers, play areas, and restaurants with child-friendly activities.

Nice's sweeping bend of brilliant-blue seawater - which once tempted the aristocracies of Europe - continues to entice and entrance visitors to these sun-soaked shores. A refined city of airy ocean boulevards grandiose buildings and open spaces fountain-sprinkled parks and colourful floral displays add to the city's timeless appeal. Nice has lost none of its old-world lustre and there remains something of the divine in the Bay of Angels' endless sparkling waterfront. The vast open Promenade des Anglais remains Nice's magnificent crowning glory inviting the city out to jog wander and glide along the Mediterranean's most spectacular curve of seafront promenade. The crisp clear golden light also continues to make Nice a destination of creative pilgrimage and Matisse Picasso and Renoir are among the many artists to lavish in the city's eternal beauty. Drag yourself away from the waterfront to discover the old town punctuated with Baroque churches rising and the wafting scents of baking pastries and lavender bundles. Follow the floral odours to Nice's famous flower market which spills gorgeous colourful displays along Cours Saleya. There's a strong hint of Italy explained by the fact that Nice only aligned with France in 1860 - following 500 years under the House of Savoy. Walk in Nietzsche's footsteps and climb up to Colline du Château's charming green park and cascading waterfalls to relish the views down over the city and sparkling sea expanse.